Scallions

Scallions and green onions are virtually interchangeable. They both derive from the same onion family, making them both super simple to grow. The next time you buy a bunch at the grocery store, leave an inch or more of the white scallion attached to the roots. Place the ends in a straight sided jar or glass and submerge just the roots in water. The scallion greens should start growing again even just sitting on a counter.

When the greens are several inches high, transfer the scallions to a container filled with damp potting mix. The greens will continue to grow. To harvest, cut to the root line. That way, the scallions can grow repeatedly for stir fries and your next batch of scallion and cheddar biscuits.

Do you know that with good light and smaller varieties, you can successfully create an indoor vegetable garden and some fruits after you’ve put your outdoor garden to bed?

Lettuce

Lettuce is a light lover, so pick your sunniest south facing window. Indoor success is more likely with loose-leaf or baby leaf lettuces that don’t need to develop substantial heads. Any well-draining container can support lettuce growing, just fill it with moistened indoor potting mix. Sprinkle seeds like you’re seasoning a soup. They’re tiny, but try to spread apart by an inch. (Don’t worry about overseeding—seedlings can be thinned and added to salads.) Spritz the seeds and top layer of soil with water.

Place in a spot that gets at least five hours of sun, but be wary of hot summer light creating too much direct heat. Most lettuces like bright but cool conditions. If leaves are stretching, supplement with grow lights. Spray soil with water when it begins to dry. Clip outside leaves first when they reach several inches and protect your harvest with the right type of lettuce keeper.

Radishes

We love a fully edible plant! From top to bottom, radishes reward indoor growers. You can eat the greens raw or sauteed, or add the bulb to salads and dinner dishes. Radishes worship the sun, so look for a window that offers six to eight hours. In lieu of nature, try a grow light for at least 12 hours a day.

Use at least a 6-inch deep container that is also wide to give radishes space to develop. Fill with damp potting mix, scatter several pinches of the tiny seeds across a container. Cover with a shallow layer of damp soil. While they need water, swampy conditions could result in disease so make sure there’s plenty of drainage. Once seeds have sprouted, thin the seedlings to about an inch apart. Depending on variety and conditions, radishes can be ready to enjoy in a month or two. Gently remove dirt around the root to check its size.

Once your crop is ready, experiment with these fun radish recipes, or keep it as simple as possible and munch on radishes with butter and sea salt (aka the world’s easiest appetizer).

Green Beans

Like other garden faves, green beans need a solid six hours of direct sunlight or grow light equivalent. They come in two varieties: Avoid the challenge of super leggy pole beans in favor of stockier, self-supporting bush beans. Also look for seeds that are self-pollinating.

In order to grow enough green beans to make a harvest worthwhile, look for a larger pot with drainage. Space beans at least two inches apart. Plant two seeds at a time, pushing them in damp potting mix past your first knuckle (an inch). Cover the hole and keep the soil evenly moist. Within a couple of weeks, sprouts should form.

If two plants emerge, you can pull the weaker one out. Turn the pot weekly for even sun exposure. After the plant flowers and fruits, make sure to harvest all the beans. Leaving them attached can shorten the plant’s life since it will think it produced the seeds necessary for reproduction.

There are dozens of delicious ways to eat green beans, but if you have a bumper crop, these pickled green beans are the way to go. They’re fantastic on their own and even better as a Bloody Mary garnish!

Sprouts

Sprouts are among the fastest growing indoor crops. They add great texture to salads and sandwiches. The most important growing tips are to be especially mindful of cleanliness and to use only seeds, grains and beans intended for sprouting. Others may pose health risks—particularly if eaten raw.

From alfalfa to lentils, the guidelines for sprouting remain consistent. Sprouts will do better away from direct window light. A bright countertop will work. Use a specific sprouting container or a wider jar that allows for air flow. Clean equipment and your hands with hot soapy water and rinse. Soak seeds in water up to 12 hours in a dark spot to jumpstart germination. Place them in your growing container. Rinse and drain thoroughly with cool, fresh water two to three times per day.

Depending on varietals, sprouts will emerge between three and six days. Start a batch every few weeks for a constant supply.

Garlic

For anyone who has ever planted garlic in the garden in September for a spring/summer harvest, it might surprise you to learn it can absolutely produce deliciousness in your indoor vegetable garden. Instead of growing bulbs, focus on greens! Like fast growing indoor herbs, each garlic clove can sprout greens.

To start, break a head of garlic into separate pieces. It can be hard neck or soft neck. Fill a 6-inch container with moist potting mix and ensure the drainage hole remains clear. Plant several cloves at least halfway down as close together as you would like. (Note: the pointy end should face up, the flat side faces down for roots to grow.) Place the container in a bright spot and green shoots should emerge in a week or two. They’re ready to clip when several inches high. The cutting encourages several rounds of growth before the bulb is exhausted.

Growing garlic bulbs indoors is possible, but requires much more planning and patience. Chilling the bulbs for at least a few weeks to replicate winter is required. Then it could still take up to nine months to harvest.

Spinach

Spinach is well-suited to growing indoors since the less intensive light fits its cooler climate personality. Try a wider and deeper container with plenty of drainage. A 6-inch depth should do the trick. Fill with dampened indoor growing medium, and plant seeds about 1/2-inch deep and at least three inches apart to give space for mature plants. Place in a sunshine-filled window.

They will germinate between 50° and 80°F, but if nothing happens after a week or so, a heat mat can kickstart the seeds. Keep the soil evenly moist but not saturated, and avoid watering the leaves. Baby spinach can be harvested anytime, being mindful to take the outer leaves first. The plants with six leaves are mature.

In addition to being incredibly healthful, spinach is versatile. Sauteed spinach offers a cooked alternative to crisp spinach salads. You can also wilt it into soups and stews or blend it into spinach pesto.

Peas

Ever consider growing peas indoors? These delicious veggies are among the healthiest vegetables you can eat. Of course, unless you have tons of space, it may be difficult to harvest a crop large enough for an entire side of creamed peas or spring pea soup, but they are fun and the pea shoots are also edible.

Most peas should flower and fruit on their own, but always check a seed packet. You can plant several in a larger pot, or one or two in something smaller. Push pea seeds about a half inch into the damp potting mix. Cover the hole and place in an area with at least eight hours of direct sun.

As with other indoor growing vegetables, grow lights can supplement what nature isn’t providing. A trellis for growing helps with air flow, but shoots can hang as well. Harvest greens on demand or wait for the pods to develop.

Microgreens

Microgreens are the small but powerful starts to what would be larger plants like broccoli and kale if you let them grow. But you don’t. And with a little attention, they can produce plenty of produce for your salads.

Shallow trays and organic potting mix are the best way to start your microgreen mini farm. Make sure all of the equipment is sterilized first. They grow in a damp environment and bacteria is always a risk. Although technically any seeds can be grown in micro fashion, try to find seeds or mixes that are sold as microgreens. This helps to ensure success and to avoid consuming something not meant to be an edible leaf.

Begin by soaking seeds overnight. Scatter seeds on damp potting mix and cover with another thin layer. Some microgreen dishes have a cover to help with germination. If a sunny window ledge results in slow growing or spindly greens, place under a grow light. Use a sprayer to water, and check the soil daily. Some greens might regenerate after cutting.

Hot Peppers

If you can’t get enough of the heat of jalapeno recipes, try growing your own at home! Plentiful sunshine and warm temperatures are key. In this case, it may be easier to start with plants from a nursery. Because they thrive in gardens that get sun all day long, try to replicate that with at least six hours of direct sun and bright light for the rest of the day.

If the peppers look listless in your window after some time, add a heat mat or a grow light. Look for smaller varieties of hot peppers that have a greater chance of succeeding. As they grow, they will need to be transplanted into larger pots—10 to 12 inches or beyond. Keep watering regularly but not enough that you start noticing soggy roots. It may take several months to see mature fruit.

Basil

If you have a south- or east-facing window, you can grow basil. No window? No worries. A grow light can suffice. Look for basil varieties that match the recipes you plan to cook—sweet basil or sweet Genovese seeds are commonly available.

Fill the container of choice with damp potting mix. Sprinkle seeds evenly and cover with a thin layer of more damp soil. Until those seeds sprout and root, consider spraying rather than pouring water and disrupting tiny roots. Small basil cuttings can top soups and salads. Or, to encourage longevity, allow the basil to grow until several sets of leaves are established. Cut just above leaf nodules to encourage branching and more production.

Pro tip: Hydroponic and soil-based plants, like basil, are often sold in grocery produce sections. Place hydroponic plants in a container with water covering the roots. They will continue to grow. Potted plants can be maintained as is until you notice the soil isn’t absorbing enough water. Learn when and how to repot plants to keep them healthy. Water when the top inch or two is dry.

Chives

If you learn how to freeze herbs, you can preserve all the flavors of summer. But you can also bring seasonal favorites like chives to grow indoors to enjoy fresh any time of the year. Transplanting from a grower pot is a great way to get started. Just make sure the upgraded container is about one size bigger (or an inch larger in circumference). Fill it with damp potting mix, and make a depression to match the size of the root ball. After placing it in the container, top off with soil to a half inch below the lip.

To grow chives from seed, fill a 6-inch container with pre-moistened potting mix. Ensure water can drain freely. Sprinkle seeds across the top and cover with a thin layer of more damp soil. Locate in an area with six to eight hours of bright light. Keep the soil damp but not drowning. Chives should start growing within two weeks.

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In the wild, you may find them attached to tree branches or in patches of root below. Their architectural rosette is unlike soil-bound plants and adds visual flair for indoor gardeners. Despite having roots in the tropics, they can basically grow wherever the light and temperature support them, inside or out. Not only are they included in the great air-purifying plants for your home, but they are also among the easiest-to-grow houseplants.

What Are Air Plants?

Air plants are part of the Bromeliaceae or Bromeliad family. There are hundreds of varieties in shades of gray, green, rose or coral (these are some of our favorite air plants!). They’re categorized as epiphytes, meaning they live above ground and receive all of the moisture they need from rainfall and humidity in the air.

Nutrition will come from the atmosphere or a host plant as well. That means they can thrive wherever they find a perch and don’t need soil to do so. With the correct conditions, they will bloom but only once. It’s a necessary part of their lifecycle after which they can propagate by throwing “pups.” They live between two and five years, but the offshoots can perpetuate an air plant.

How to Care for Air Plants

Despite their sometimes dusty appearance and their reputation of ease, air plants do have a few specific growing requirements.

Planting Air Plants

In nature, air plants attach where they land with the help of their shallow roots. In a house, planting is more like styling. There is only one rule: avoid soil. They can be placed in a bowl with pebbles, attached with moss and fishing line to an orchid with its similar growing conditions or added to driftwood. Use your imagination and current decor to guide display choices; you can even group a few together for a bolder look. Wherever you decide, just ensure they can be easily removed from their support for watering.

Watering Air Plants

If you’re cultivating air plants at home, be mindful of their water requirements. There are a couple of ways to give them what they need. Misting them fully two to three times per week can work, but a complete bath is preferable. Immerse it in water once a week for at least 30 minutes. (Avoid chemically softened water!) Shake out excess water before returning your air plant to its home. The best time to water plants is in the morning. When air plants have damp leaves at night it will be more challenging for them to absorb carbon dioxide.

The Best Air Plant Environment

For healthy air plants, try to channel their tropical heritage. They prefer bright, dappled light and warm, well-circulated air. Avoid placing them in temperatures that drop below 50°F, but they’re fine with a cooldown at night. In homes that experience winter, keep them away from super cold window exposure.

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Perhaps the way to think about vase shapes is to compare them to shoes. Few people have only one pair. There are sneakers and sandals, loafers and stilettos. Like having a wardrobe full of all type of shoes, it’s important to have a variety of vase shapes, sizes and colors that work for different occasions.

Vase Materials

To find the right vase, consider materials and color. Glass can be clear or colored and is probably one of the most common and easiest to use options. Metallics offer shine or patina to accent home interiors—but usually need a lining. Those who prefer to disguise floral stems should look for opaque containers including stoneware and wood.

With all of these materials in mind, there are a handful of vase shapes and sizes that make flower arranging a breeze.

5 Vase Shapes You Need

Bud Vase

Bud vases may be small, but they can be powerful. They’re designed to hold a minimum of stems, making them super budget friendly from a flower standpoint. The petite teardrop from CB2 is a classic example. It looks great with a single rose and piece of greenery. Run several of them down the kitchen island to make a statement.

Layering multiple vases together makes them even more interesting. These bud vases from Ballard Designs offer a fun way to play with colored glass. Mix colors and shapes. Vases can range in height from just a few inches to somewhat taller. Anything can work as a bud vase including upcycled vinegar and mini wine bottles. For other styles, look to ceramic finishes.

Flowers with slim stems and delicate heads work best. Garden blooms like cosmos and lavender are perfect, but so are structural flowers like calla lilies. Combine a few delicate stems for a no-fuss arrangement.

Cylinder Vase

Using a glass cylinder for flowers is an industry standard for good reason. It’s a beautiful way to showcase flowers! Luckily most people have at least one glass cylinder tucked away. Because many are slightly taller than they are wide, they give extra support to the flowers in an arrangement.

For a simple but elegant arrangement, start with about 12 to 18 roses. Cut them long enough that their heads exceed the lip of the vase by at least a couple of inches. Then start circling the outside of the vase making sure the stems are crossing. Working concentrically, make another circle until all gaps are filled. This method works for most single-headed flowers.

Decorative options like this version from Jamali Gardens look as good with a candle as they do with flowers. A ceramic cylinder updates the look and hides messy stems. Add a coaster or trivet to protect surfaces from moisture. Or skip the water entirely in favor of dried pampas grass or branches.

Mason Jar

Mason jar, ball jar, canning jar…there’s more than one way to say “adorable rustic vase.” Mason jars come in multiple sizes meant for preserving food. A half pint works as a petite accent with a small handful of flowers. For a kitchen table bouquet, a 16-ounce jar would be preferable.

Experiment with colored glass and other decor. Jars can be painted or wrapped with decorative paper, ribbon or burlap. Step outside the canning aisle and shop for an opaque hobnail jar or several modified shapes like Etu Home’s trio.

Most jars make flower arranging a friendly affair. The narrower top ensures flowers stay in place. Start an arrangement by adding greens like eucalyptus around the edges. Then keep to the garden style by layering a few larger flowers like mums and daisies. Thread veronica, snapdragons or solidago to fill the gaps. Pack the stems or allow some breathing space. Both ways work. Find more Mason jar flower arrangement ideas.

Gathering Vase

Some vases are designed to hold a store-bought bouquet easily. A gathering vase falls into that category. Generally this vase shape is taller, with a flare at the lip. It may have a nipped waist. It’s simply waiting for a gathering of hand-tied flowers, as if someone just walked in from the garden with bits of ephemera.

A ready-made bouquet is not a prerequisite for a gathering vase. Just a few stems of hydrangea would thrive with the extra depth and weight of a gathering or bouquet vase. Beyond glass, stoneware versions may offer a better aesthetic match. A white glazed porcelain container blends beautifully with wildflowers.

Add water daily to these arrangements. Replace it entirely every 2 to 3 days to prevent bacteria growth.

Here are flower arrangement ideas inspired by store-bought bouquets and the backyard.

Wood Box

For less formal or outdoor settings, think about a wood vase. These containers vary from square to cylindrical. They’re perfect for holding container plants, dried arrangements and fresh flowers.

Make sure the boxes are lined with plastic to prevent leaks. Wet floral foam should reach the lip of the container and be completely soaked. Start an arrangement by adding long-lasting greens throughout and over the edges. Centerpieces with ranunculus and hydrangea bring romance. They can last for several days assuming the flowers are well-hydrated, but roses, carnations and thistle have extra staying power.

The options for fun are endless. Run string lights through the greens or replace the floral foam with candles in wooden builder boxes and small jars of flowers. Plant table numbers in the box or stencil them on the side for weddings.

Vase Budget

With so many options available, consider cost along with style. Bud vases are available for a few dollars. Shop the local thrift store for inexpensive florist vases. For vintage fans, estate sales are loaded with well priced crystal.

Vase Maintenance

Check all containers for leaks, even glass. And most importantly, keep those vases clean. Cleaning containers between arrangements protects the investment and extends the life of the next bouquet.

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