Cleaning the coils might not be at the top of your list when deep-cleaning appliances. But if the fridge is located in a dusty environment (like the garage) or you have a lot of pet hair in your home, maintaining the coils is a good idea.

There’s no need to be intimidated—if you can vacuum, you can clean refrigerator coils! We’ll walk you through the process.

How to Clean Fridge Coils

Tools you’ll need

• Refrigerator coil cleaning brush (optional)
• Vacuum with brush attachment
• Screwdriver

Directions

Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator

This process is quick, so don’t worry about the food inside. Keep the doors closed, and the food will stay cold while you work.

Step 2: Locate the coils

The condenser coils are usually located behind the base grille or on the back of the refrigerator.

Step 3: Move the fridge away from the wall

Pull it out of its alcove. If necessary, remove the grille. Depending on your model, the grille might pop off with a gentle push, or you might need a screwdriver.

Step 4: Vacuum

Gently vacuum the coils with the brush attachment to remove dust, debris and pet hair. You can also use a coil cleaning brush like this one. The long, narrow brush makes it easier to access all the intricate areas of the coils.

Vacuum up any dirt and hair left on the floor.

Step 5: Clean the grille

Wipe down the grille with a soft cloth and replace the grille if it was removed. Plug the fridge back in, and you’re done!

How Often to Clean Fridge Coils

If your fridge runs smoothly and maintains the right temperature, your coils are most likely just fine. However, if you’ve noticed the fridge isn’t as cold as usual, removing dust from the coils is a good first troubleshooting step.

According to Whirlpool, “In a normal home operating environment, routine condenser cleaning is not typically needed. However, if the environment is particularly greasy or dusty or there is significant pet traffic in the home, the condenser should be cleaned every two to three months to ensure maximum efficiency.”

Related:

• How to Clean Your Kitchen, Step by Step
• How to Clean Grease off the Most Common Kitchen Surfaces
• How to Clean a Kitchen Sink

The post How Often to Clean Your Fridge Coils appeared first on Taste Recipes.

The residue is not harmful, and that chalky discoloration can easily be removed.

Why does my stainless steel pan look cloudy?

The cloudy haze you see on your stainless steel pan is caused by, well, water. Pretty anticlimactic, right? Water, particularly hard water, contains mineral deposits, including calcium. Those minerals can wreak havoc on certain areas of your home. The same reason you have a clogged shower head, stubborn soap scum, or a discolored coffee maker is also what’s causing calcium buildup on your stainless steel pans.

When hard water is heated, solid deposits of calcium carbonate can form. When you boil water, it breaks down and leaves behind calcium carbonate, also called limescale. This process also happens in the dishwasher, because the appliance uses heat to wash and dry the dishes. Your stainless steel pot is left with unsightly white stains that no amount of scrubbing will remove. It’s kind of like how heat creates rainbow spots on stainless steel.

How can I remove the spots from stainless steel cookware?

To remove calcium deposits from stainless steel, it’s vinegar to the rescue! We all know vinegar is a powerhouse when it comes to fighting hard water deposits. The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) says, “The acidity of vinegar helps to dissolve mineral particles by making them charged. These newly charged particles become attracted to the positive and negative charges in water and can be washed away easily.”

Here’s how to apply that science to cleaning your stainless steel cookware:

1. Fill the stained pan with three parts white vinegar and one part water.
2. Bring to a boil, then turn off the burner. For extra stubborn stains, allow the pan to soak for a few minutes.
3. Rinse, then immediately dry with a clean towel.

That’s it! Once the vinegar dissolves the calcium, the stains will easily wipe away, and your pan will look new again. To keep them clean repeat this process as needed. If you wash any stainless steel cookware in the dishwasher, use a rinse aid like Finish Jet Dry. Rinse aids create a protective layer on your pots and pans that repels water droplets, preventing them from drying on the surface and leaving behind mineral stains.

The post This Is Why Your Stainless Steel Pots and Pans Look Cloudy appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Further complicating things, cordless vacuums that last for years are an investment, and both brands boast sizable price tags. Because of this, the question of Dyson vs. Shark is a hotly argued debate. What’s more, it’s not like you can just head to the store and test each vacuum prior to purchase.

Conflicted cleaners, unite! Our Product Testing Team did the hard work for you. We put a handful of the most popular Shark and Dyson cordless models to the test—15 tests, to be precise—in order to help you pick the vacuum that offers the best bang for your buck. Dust bunnies—wave the white flag. It’s time to meet our vacuum bag.

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We Tried It

Dyson Cordless Vacuums

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Shark Cordless Vacuums

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Shark vs. Dyson: At a Glance

Founded in 2007, Shark pioneered their No-Loss-of-Suction vacuum technology, making them a hit in U.S. households. From there, the brand released more than 25 different Shark vacuums including cordless, handheld and upright models. The brand now operates in nine countries nationwide. Their partner brand, Ninja, manufactures trusted small appliances, the most popular of which is the viral Ninja Creami.

On the other hand, Dyson, first launched in Japan in 1991, debuted the first bagless vacuum cleaner on the market. After winning the 1991 International Design Fair prize, the company expanded to the U.S. Their innovative cyclone technology quickly boosted the brand into a household name. Now, Dyson products sell around the world, and they’re not limited to cordless or upright vacuums, either—just take a look at the popular Airwrap and blade-free air purifier fans.

Shark vs. Dyson: What’s similar?

When it comes to Shark vs. Dyson, determining which brand is better isn’t as simple as looking at reputation. Both well-trusted brands in the cleaning space, Dyson and Shark each boast thousands of loyal fans. They each offer a wide range of models that tackle different cleaning tasks at different price points.

Shark vs. Dyson: What’s different?

Dyson’s main draw is their luxe look, longevity and scientifically backed technologies. Offering nine different cordless vacuum models, Dyson’s focus is maintaining suction and offering flexible attachments that streamline cleaning. Even their budget options have at least one attachment for eliminating dirt and debris in tight spaces. Pricier picks come with sci-fi-tier technology like a laser light that reveals hidden dust, an LCD screen that detects particulates in the air and a whole-unit HEPA filter.

Shark vacuums tout themselves as “lighter, longer-running, more maneuverable, and more powerful” than other vacuum cleaners on the market. Their lineup of cordless vacuums includes a whopping nine different models, each offering different features for pets, allergies and emptying. A few models come in several different shades to fit a variety of home aesthetics.

Shark’s main focus is offering lightweight vacuums that tackle common household problems like pet hair. Several of their models convert into handheld vacuums. This offers additional convenience for de-crumbing couches, dusting upholstery and squeezing into tight spaces like stairs and underneath beds.

How We Tested Our Shark Vacuums

For the Shark vs. Dyson debate, we chose to test five vacuums from Shark’s cordless vacuum lineup: Shark Stratos, Shark Vertex Pro, Shark Cordless Pro, Shark Pet Plus and the Shark Pet Cordless. We spent an estimated 40 hours on these evaluations, including researching, sourcing, intaking and testing the products.

Our evaluations are based on several test categories, including packaging and setup, specs and features, performance, accessories, cleaning and emptying and, finally, value. We rated each category out of five possible points for a maximum total of 30 points overall.

Shark Packaging and Setup

Overall, each of the Shark vacuums we tested came well packaged with its own Quick Start Guide. Note that this is different from the product manuals, which are available online rather than in print. That said, they gave a good overview of how to set up the vacuums and start cleaning.

Assembling all of the vacuums was really intuitive and took less than two minutes each. The lengthiest part of the process was unboxing and familiarizing ourselves with the clips, buttons and functions. From there, we charged up each cordless vacuum. All the Shark vacuums we tested took at least two hours to charge. The Vertex, Pet Plus and Pet Cordless vacuums took closer to three hours to reach full charge.

Shark Specs

Each Shark vacuum we tested is relatively lightweight. Most average out at just over seven pounds with the battery installed. The Stratos model weighed significantly more at over eight pounds. However, it’s still lightweight enough to glide across the floor with little effort. Considering that cordless vacuums are pretty top-heavy, every little ounce counts!

In addition to weight, another important consideration is noise level. At their highest settings, most of the Shark vacuums (aside from the quieter Pet Cordless model) put out about 80 dB of noise. That’s comparable to heavy traffic or a noisy restaurant. On low power, most put out around 75 dB, which is the typical noise level of most vacuums. The outlier is the Pet Cordless model, which topped out at only 73 dB at its highest setting. While none of these options are exactly quiet, we recommend opting for this one if you’re sensitive to noise.

Top Shark Features

Notable features include a flexible head on the Stratos that makes getting under furniture a breeze. Helpful LED headlights on the Stratos, Pet Plus and Pet Cordless models illuminate dirt and debris in dark spaces like underneath beds and inside closets. Most of the models also offer different modes for a variety of surfaces and soil levels. While the Pet Plus and Pet Cordless models don’t have additional settings, they both boast a pull trigger boost mode for extra dirty areas.

Shark Performance

When it comes to performance, we considered battery life, maneuverability, couch clearance, recommended floor type and how effectively each picked up the litter we scattered. We tested several common debris types, including cornflakes, glitter, crumbs and real human hair from a salon—for science, of course! It’s worth noting that each Shark vacuum works on all floor types, though it’s important to use the correct attachment for each surface.

Most of the cordless vacuums lasted around 30 minutes on the carpet setting after a full charge. The Shark Pet Plus and Shark Pet Cordless died much quicker, running for only about 20 minutes before requiring a recharge. That said, the Shark Stratos blew us out of the water with a jaw-dropping 42 minutes of incredible suction power.

In terms of maneuverability, Shark gets high marks across the board. Some models, like the Shark Cordless Pro, offered slight resistance over carpet. That said, each of the vacuums is easy to guide around furniture and glide along the floor. Clearance is similarly impressive, with Shark beating out Dyson for the top two spots. The best clearance ratings belong to the Stratos at just shy of three inches and the Vertex at 3-1/4 inches.

Most of the Sharks performed beautifully on both carpet and tile. However, most also struggled while picking up glitter on carpet, leaving a few specks behind even after a few passes. The two pet vacuums, the Pet Cordless and Pet Plus, performed best on carpet and kitchen rugs. We’d recommend springing for the latter, as the Pet Cordless unfortunately underperformed on the hair tests—not ideal for a vacuum marketed towards pet hair. Those with houses that have a majority of hard surfaces should stick to one of the other models.

The Stratos again impressed us with its performance, simultaneously killing it on both the cornflake and glitter tests while also snatching up a majority of the hair on our carpets. We attribute this to its CleanIQ, which automatically adjusts the vacuum’s suction level based on the amount of debris it detects.

Shark Accessories

While not as tech-forward as Dyson, Shark vacuums boast myriad attachments. Each vacuum includes a crevice tool, but the other attachments vary based on model. The most impressive accessory is the two-in-one multipurpose pet attachment on the Cordless Pro. This tool lifted so much dust and debris off one of our dining table chairs that the fabric turned an even brighter white. While it’s not the best choice for delicate materials, the results are impressive.

We also enjoyed using the anti-allergen brush that comes with both the Pet Plus and Stratos models. Not only does it attach in a snap, but it also easily dusts neglected shelving in mere seconds.

Cleaning and Emptying Shark Vacuums

Cleaning a Shark vacuum is incredibly easy. Each of the models we tested cleans up nicely with plain water. Simply run the emptied dust cup under the faucet and dry thoroughly before replacing. The filters are similarly easy to clean using plain running water. Again, ensure that these thoroughly dry prior to replacing.

Our only hang-up regarding the cleaning process is that the filters don’t clean entirely under running water. For the most part, the filters looked grayish after the first use, and no amount of water fixed that. In addition, the dust cup on each vacuum is oriented in a way that it can be easily opened and spilled onto the floor by accident. It’s worth being extra careful not to hit the release button while cleaning!

Shark Value

For the price, you really can’t beat the value of Shark vacuums. Even the Shark Pet Plus and Shark Pet Cordless models, which accumulated the fewest points, still offer pretty decent suction and performance for the lower price point.

The Vertex and the Stratos seemed like markedly higher quality, so although the Cordless Pro performed quite well, we were still surprised to see it was the same price point as the Vertex. In our opinion, those looking for the best performance should consider springing for the slightly costlier Stratos.

If you have a lot of area rugs, the Pet Cordless may be the best budget vacuum for you. The single brush roller has a higher profile that works well with carpet. However, it may not clean hard surfaces as well as other Shark models with the dual roller system.

Pros

• Includes our top performer, the Shark Stratos
• Relatively affordable
• Easy to maneuver
• Tons of attachments
• Performs equally well on carpet and tile
• Decent battery life
• Five-year machine warranty
• Two-year battery warranty
• Lots of different models

Cons

• Easy to accidentally open the dust cup
• No product manual in box

Our Favorite Shark Vacuums

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Best Overall

Shark Stratos

This cordless vacuum comes with two handy attachments that tackle dust and allergens on upholstery and shelving, plus myriad features that flawlessly tackle dirt on both tile and carpet.

499.9940% OFF$299.99 at Shark

499.9924% OFF$379.68 at Amazon

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Best Budget

Shark Cordless Pro

For a budget pick, we prefer the Shark Cordless Pro. Sense IQ automatically adjusts suction to tackle bigger messes, and a lit control panel indicates power level and simplifies switching between hard surface and carpet modes.

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Best for Pets

Shark Pet Plus

The Shark Pet Plus makes up for its more modest performance with its fleet of pet-centric features. An upholstery tool de-furs furniture, while an anti-allergen dust brush and crevice tool pull up dander with ease.

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How We Tested Dyson Vacuums

In our testing for the the Dyson vs. Shark debate, we tried four different vacuums from Dyson: Dyson Gen5outsize, Dyson V15s Detect Submarine, Dyson v8 and the Dyson v12 Detect Slim.

Like the Shark tests, we evaluated each vacuum based on criteria in the following areas: Packaging and setup, specs and features, performance, accessories, cleaning and emptying and, lastly, value. We conducted the tests (including sourcing, researching and product intake) over the course of 40 hours in our Testing Lab. As with our Shark tests, we rated each category out of 5 possible points, for a maximum total of 30 points overall.

Dyson Packaging and Setup

All Dyson models arrive in a sleek slide-out box sans any branding, offering a sustainable packaging option. Because it opens up from the side, the box works well for accessory storage. It’s also easy to see everything in the box at a glance without digging, unlike the Shark boxes. Each vacuum also comes with an illustrated quick-start guide and a flyer that prompts you to download the Dyson App—more on this later.

Setup is simple, though it takes a bit longer than the Shark vacuums. We are able to assemble most in about a minute. In terms of charge time, Dyson vacuums took a bit longer than the Shark models, ranging from about three hours for the Detect Slim vs. a whopping four hour charge time for the V15s Detect Submarine.

Dyson Specs

In terms of weight, Dyson offers pretty distinct weight differences with each model. The smaller, slimmer v12 Detect Slim and v8 models weigh in at around five pounds, whereas the larger, more robust Gen5outsize and Detect Submarine models are closer to nine pounds. The attachments are also a consideration, with most adding about an additional pound to the total weight of the vacuum.

While the V15s Detect Submarine, v8 and v12 Detect Slim vacuums top out at around 80 db (or the noise level of heavy traffic or a loud restaurant), the Dyson Gen5outsize is a total powerhouse that puts anywhere from 84 dB to 86 dB, depending on the setting. For reference, that’s almost comparable to the sound of an MIG welder on steel. Yeowch—that’s pretty loud!

Dyson Features

Dyson’s features are likely what tips these vacuums into their higher price point. A slick, easy-to-read LCD screen adorns the top of each model, sans the more basic v8. Most impressive is the Gen5outsize menu, which offers stats regarding the current vacuum session including the types and number of particles sucked up.

While insightful, we had difficulty deciphering some of the more nuanced menus. This is definitely one that you’ll want to read the manual for! Luckily, this model does arrive with a rather large instruction booklet.

Other features worth mentioning include a carpet pile height adjuster on the Detect Submarine and Gen5outsize models. The two other models offer a single mode (the v8) and low or max power settings (v12 Detect Slim). All the models are incredibly sleek, minimalistic and feel sturdy and well-made. Aesthetics is definitely an area where Dyson beats out Shark.

Interestingly, the V15s Detect Submarine requires holding down the power button to turn it on—there’s no option for it to be held down on its own. At first, we weren’t fond of having to constantly hold down the button, but we grew to like it—it’s nice to have the button and have so much control over the on and off. This makes it easy to turn on and off in a second if you have to move something or change floor types.

Dyson App

The Dyson App works for all of Dyson’s cordless models, offering a few extras that help with using and maintaining your Dyson vacuum. Instead of actually connecting and controlling aspects of your device, the app is a replacement for the traditional user guide. Each roller head has its own short video guide for usage and the videos change depending on which model and attachments you have.

It bundles information guides, troubleshooting tips, links to support forums, a Digital Assistant and quick access to a customer service rep. All in all, the app isn’t mandatory for your vacuum, but it is an easy way to access any type of information you would want or need for its operation.

The app itself works pretty well. It’s responsive when scrolling, and videos load fast on decent Wi-Fi. There is a Bluetooth connection option, but it seems to be utilized for their other products like air purifiers and headphones. In fact, we’re not even sure it’s possible to connect your vacuum to the app via Bluetooth. Instead, easily connect any vacuums using the device’s serial code.

Dyson Performance

Like the Shark tests, we considered battery life, maneuverability, couch clearance, recommended floor type and how well each picked up the debris. We used the same debris as the Shark test, opting for glitter, cornflakes, crumbs and hair. Battery life for the Dyson vacuums are pretty synonymous with the Shark models minus the Shark Stratos, with all averaging at about 25-30 minutes of runtime per charge.

With such a long charge time, you may assume that Dyson vacuums run for a longer period of time than the Shark models. However, Dyson vacuums averaged at about the same operation time, offering 25-30 minutes of continuous suction before requiring a recharge.

Unfortunately, most of the Dyson vacuums—with the exception of the Gen5outsize—simply pushed around the cornflakes on the vinyl floors. This was rather disappointing, especially given the higher price point. However, all the models performed exceptionally well on low-pile carpets, and save for the two lower-end options, each managed to pick up tons of hair without clogging.

In addition, Dyson’s edge-to-edge feature offers consistent corner-clearing results across all their models. Even the cheapest one still works great in this regard!

Dyson Accessories

The anti-tangle hair tool on the Gen5outsize and v12 Detect Slim was definitely our favorite attachment. Picking up the hair requires quite a few passes, but we didn’t notice any wrapping up or tangling. It’s super cool to watch the hair work its way through the screw and up the wand. Additionally, on the Gen5outsize model, the “Fluffy Optic” hard-floor cleaner head has a green LED light attached and lights up the ground where you are vacuuming. This really helps show every single speck of dirt on the ground.

That said, there are a few aspects we don’t enjoy. The Gen5outsize requires the crevice tool to convert to a handheld, which makes it very heavy while holding it and bending down due to the oversized dirt cup. The v8’s crevice tool also gave us a few complications. When blocked, the ventilator holes on the side of the crevice tool make the vacuum surge and stop working. This may be a safety feature so it doesn’t start a fire—we can smell it burning when this happens. Yikes!

Similarly, the v12 Detect Slim’s crevice tool only works on the lowest settings. On the highest setting, it behaves similarly to the v8’s crevice tool. It even gives us a pop up warning symbol on the screen when we attempt to use it on high power between cushions.

Dyson Cleaning and Emptying

For each model, the rubber portion around the dust cup’s edges really collect a ton of debris. It’s virtually impossible to get fully clean with just a damp rag. That said, everything else wiped clean effortlessly. Those concerned about this should opt for the v12 Detect Slim model. It’s the easiest Dyson dust cup to wipe down because of its orientation.

All of the Dyson filters were relatively simple to rinse, dry and replace. The v8 and Gen5outsize debris chambers were very easy to empty, and there were zero nooks or crannies for crud to collect. On the other hand, both the v12 Detect Slim and the Detect Submarine require a little digging to loosen up the dirt and dust inside, which is rather unpleasant.

Dyson Value

One place where Dyson differs wildly from Shark is in the price point of its vacuums. Whereas the most expensive Shark vacuum we tested topped out at $499, Dyson’s cordless vacuum models start at $299.99 for the most basic vacuum and skyrocket up to $1,049.99 for the Gen5outsize. However, the sleek design and myriad features make up for this discrepancy in price.

The performance of the Gen5outsize was by far the best of all the Dysons. The only downside is the bulk. Plus, it isn’t as easy to maneuver, though it does come with tons of useful attachments. A less costly option is the v8, which is more agile than the Gen5outsize with many of the same attachments. However, it has a smaller dirt cup which requires more frequent emptying. Those in smaller spaces should consider the v12 Detect Slim, which offers a smaller profile that easily maneuvers tight areas.

Pros

• Solid, high-quality materials that last
• Vacuums come with a two-year warranty
• Sleek, minimalistic design
• Tons of useful attachments
• Attractive LED navigation menus
• Well-packaged boxes work well for storage
• All vacuums come with a wall-mounted dock

Cons

• Pricier than Shark vacuums
• Crevice attachments gave us some trouble
• Take quite a while to charge

Our Favorite Dyson Vacuums

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Dyson Gen5outsize

We chose the Dyson Gen5outsize as the overall best Dyson cordless vacuum for its performance, fleet of attachments, sleek LCD screen and enormous dust collection bin.

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Dyson v8

The Dyson v8 is the most inexpensive of all the Dyson models we tested. While more basic than the others, it impressed with a lightweight design, uncomplicated settings and stellar performance.

469.9912% OFF$414.99 at Amazon

$469.99 at Dyson

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Best for Pets

Dyson Outsize Plus

Tthe Dyson Outsize Plus features a 150% bigger bin and a 25% wider cleaner head than the Dyson V11. This cordless cleaning machine easily snatches up even the biggest pet hair messes.

599.995% OFF$569.95 at Amazon

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The Shark vs. Dyson Bottom Line: What Do You Value Most?

So, when it comes to Shark vs. Dyson, which brand comes out on top? Well, it depends on your own expectations and needs. Those looking for a budget pick that offers big bang for your buck and tons of flexible attachments should consider a Shark vacuum. On the other hand, anyone seeking style and substance in a machine that’s built to last for years can’t go wrong with a Dyson.

Regardless of the brand you choose, it’s important to look at the features and attachments to ensure that the vacuum you choose will meet the demands of your household.

Shark vs Dyson FAQs

Is Shark better than Dyson?

Both Shark and Dyson offer cordless vacuums with solid performance. That said, Shark vacuums are typically less pricey than Dyson’s models, and there are a lot more features and attachments to choose from. If you’re looking to tailor your vacuum to your home—taking into consideration flooring and overall use cases—you can’t go wrong with a Shark vacuum.

What is the best performing Shark vacuum?

In our opinion, the top spot goes to the Shark Stratos. It impressed us during our tests with its lightweight design. Rear wheels make it highly maneuverable, as does the flexible bending wand to get under furniture. It stores in an upright position and doesn’t require a wall mount to do so, unlike the Dyson models. With its blend of high suction, impressive attachments and easy navigation, this model boasts high marks across the board and was our favorite vacuum overall.

What Shark vacuum has the most powerful suction?

The Shark Stratos offered some of the best suction power during our Product Testing Team’s evaluations. Only one pass picked up most debris on tile floors, and three passes eliminated most of the glitter and cornflakes on carpet. This was easier to push on the higher-pile carpet than any of the Dyson models because of the large wheels. It also does an excellent job snatching up hair compared to the other models we tested.

Do Shark and Dyson vacuums last long?

Shark vacuums are known to last for up to 10 years before requiring a replacement. However, they need to maintained and properly used to last for this long.

Dyson claims that the average lifespan of their vacuums is around 5 years. That said, some folks use theirs for up to ten years before requiring a replacement, making them an excellent investment.

Should you empty Dyson after every use?

We recommend emptying and cleaning your Dyson after every use in order to preserve the vacuum’s suction and filter integrity.

Why You Should Trust Us

Emily Way is a shopping editor at Reader’s Digest, Family Handyman and Taste Recipes as well as a former sales and deals editor. In these roles she has found, reviewed and tested hundreds of home and lifestyle products including kitchenware, cleaning gadgets and subscriptions. Given her experience testing so much home gear, she is well-equipped to compare Shark and Dyson vacuums.

Alexandra Mantella, Content Updates Editor at Taste Recipes, updated and contributed research to this piece. She has over five years of experience in product testing, research and commerce writing. Previously, she served as a commerce content update editor at Bob Vila.

The post Shark vs. Dyson: Which Cordless Vacuum Cleaner Brand Is Better [According to Our Tests]? appeared first on Taste Recipes.

But once you’ve seen how gross your can opener is, you can’t unsee it. I’ll walk you through why it’s rusty and, most importantly, how to clean it.

What causes a rusty can opener?

The main cause of rust on your can opener is water. Here’s a brief chemistry lesson: When iron and oxygen combine in the presence of water, they create iron oxide, or rust. That’s why exposing a can opener to moisture for too long (like sitting in a humid dishwasher) will cause rust. Food particles don’t help either, because all that buildup in the gears and other crevices traps water and causes corrosion. That leads to, yep, more rust.

How do I remove rust from a can opener?

As you probably already know, rust and food shouldn’t mix. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) says, “Rust is not a food safe material, so it should not be ingested. If you see rust on the surface of a utensil such as a cast-iron skillet or knife, remove all the rust before using it.”

The most efficient way to remove rust from your can opener is with an old cleaning standby: white vinegar. I love using vinegar to clean things like stained baking sheets and my wood cutting board. The acidity works wonders while also being food-safe.

Here’s how to clean a rusty can opener with vinegar:

1. Fill a Mason jar with enough white vinegar to submerge the rusty part of your can opener (often only the gears are rusty).
2. Place the can opener in the vinegar and soak for about five minutes. Extend the time if your can opener is super dirty.
3. Take the can opener out of the vinegar and scrub with a small brush dipped in the vinegar. I like to keep an old toothbrush under the kitchen sink for jobs like this.
4. Continue scrubbing with vinegar and rinsing until the can opener is clean. Dry thoroughly with a cloth.

How can I prevent rust from forming on a can opener?

Once your can opener is sparkling and rust-free, keep it that way with proper maintenance. Clean your can opener after every use, but don’t put it in the dishwasher—the humidity and steam will lead to more rust. Instead, give it a quick rinse under hot water, and scrub with a brush and a little dish soap to clean all the hard-to-reach areas. Once it’s clean, the most important step is drying. Air-drying is not enough. Dry the can opener completely with a soft cloth before storing. Remember, moisture equals rust!

The post This Is Why Your Can Opener Is Always Rusty appeared first on Taste Recipes.

The brothers are experts in home renovation and real estate, so they know the value of a clean and sparkling home. Whether you’re staging your home to sell, or simply tackling a neglected kitchen, Drew and Jonathan’s tips are easily achievable. We gathered up a few spot-on cleaning and organization recommendations that will make your life easier.

Use one shelf in the refrigerator for leftovers

In this TikTok, Jonathan gives a tour of how he and wife Zooey Deschanel keep their refrigerator organized. The most genius tip he shares is designating one shelf as the leftover shelf. No need to search the whole fridge for that last piece of pizza, because it will be on the leftover shelf! Corralling your leftovers in one area also prevents them from being shoved to the back of the fridge where they get lost, forgotten and moldy.

Invest in drawer organizers

If you’ve done any kind of home organizing, you’ve come across drawer organizers in some shape or form. This Drew and Jonathan TikTok shows how simple drawer dividers can completely transform your unruly kitchen junk drawer. Create individual sections for different items, like Post-It notes, pens and tape. When it’s time to purge and reorganize, simply rearrange the contents to fit your needs.

Organize cabinets like a store

Jonathan Scott shows off his laundry room cabinets in this TikTok, and recommends organizing them like store shelves. Most of us aren’t lucky enough to have such a spacious laundry room, but you can apply his tip to any storage space, like a linen closet or pantry.

Everything has a place and is clearly labeled. Wire baskets (here’s a similar product) inside the cabinets help keep the different products separated and tidy. You can easily see what you have and when it’s time to restock.

This is why the Property Brothers prefer cabinets to open shelving.

Choose dependable cleaning products

Drew and Jonathan have several cleaning products that they use again and again. Your cleaning closet, caddy or cabinet should be stocked with dependable workhorses that get the job done. In this @drewandjonathan reel, they put The Pink Stuff to the test in the kitchen. The viral cleaning paste is great at removing grime from the sink, the stovetop and even inside the oven. Some of Drew and Jonathan’s other go-to products include the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and Mrs. Meyer’s Multi Surface Spray.

Realistically, a home visit and renovation from the Property Brothers only exists in our dreams. But at least we can incorporate their cleaning advice in our kitchens! Follow the brothers’ expertise to keep your house clean, tidy and fresh. And remember, Drew and Jonathan always make cleaning fun, so crank up the music while you work!

The post 4 Secrets for a Sparkling Kitchen from Drew and Jonathan Scott appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Now that I have a kitchen of my own, I find myself washing and wiping every surface in sight. The pots, pans, dishes and countertops get regular treatment, but I recently discovered another kitchen item I should pay attention to. Turns out salt and pepper shakers are much dirtier than I thought.

Why are salt and pepper shakers so dirty?

They’re likely two of the most used items in your kitchen. Think about the last time you made a recipe that didn’t include salt somewhere—not very common. They’re constantly being touched, not only by you, but also your family, friends and anyone else you have over for a holiday gathering. You use them before and after handling meat, veggies and other seasonings. If they’re next to your stove, it’s also likely oil particles have made their way onto the surface, which makes it much easier for dust, germs and other grime to stick. Pepper shakers specifically harbor upwards of 11,600 bacteria on average, according to an ABC News study.

Do you remember the last time you really cleaned your salt and pepper shakers? If you can’t, don’t worry. Luckily, we’ve got all the tips and tricks you need to clean kitchen items from counter to counter.

How do I clean salt and pepper shakers?

Wipe down the exteriors of your salt and pepper shakers at least once a week with a damp cloth, more often if you keep them near the stove like I do. When your shakers empty out, give them a thorough run through the dishwasher (if they’re dishwasher safe) or hand wash with soapy water. Now you’re one step closer to a cleaner kitchen.

The post This Is the One Thing Everyone Forgets to Clean After Dinner appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Resist the instinct to self-clean, at least for now. Relying on self-cleaning can be harmful, causing mechanical issues or just plain wearing the oven out. Here are some common mistakes people make with self-cleaning ovens, along with a better way to keep this essential appliance nice and clean.

Using the Self-Cleaning Feature Too Frequently

The self-cleaning feature takes a toll on your oven’s inner workings. A self-cleaning cycle heats the oven to a tremendously high temperature, turning even the most stubborn bits of food residue into ash. The trouble is that modern stoves have hidden heating elements inside the ceiling of the oven and/or under the oven floor. These are safer for baking than exposed elements but trickier to vent. When temperatures rise above 500° or 600°F, the incredible heat can make fuses pop and control panels burn out. Yikes!

What to do instead:

Experts suggest using the self-cleaning feature just once or twice a year. You can also consider shutting off the self-cleaning cycle after one hour rather than deploying the full-length cycle, which can run closer to four hours.

Using Self-Cleaning Instead of Regular Cleaning

If you use your oven often, self-cleaning once or twice a year won’t keep it clean for long. The grease from baking bacon, overspill from casseroles and pizzas that drip cheese onto the floor add up pretty quickly. But don’t rush to press the self-clean button. The self-cleaning cycle isn’t the only way to clean an oven—or even the best way.

What to do instead:

It’s easy to clean an oven. For starters, wipe out the interior of a cool oven with a soapy dishcloth or sponge. Regular and simple upkeep prevents crumbs and grease from building up and getting baked onto the walls.

If the interior looks extra grimy, steam clean the oven. Put a pot of water with the juice of a lemon or two into the oven and bake until the oven walls are steamy. Turn off the oven, leaving the pot in place. Once it’s cool, wipe down the walls, floor and window with a sponge. The steam will soften up the caked-on gunk, making it easy to remove. Plus, cleaning with lemon makes a nice-smelling oven.

Using Harsh Commercial Cleaning Agents

You can find many commercial oven cleaners at the store, so it seems like an obvious choice for scrubbing out your oven…right? Not always. Commercial oven cleaners can cause the self-cleaning feature to be less effective—kind of self-defeating.

What to do instead:

Gentle cleaners are extremely effective and they’re nontoxic, which is ideal for cleaning a device you use for cooking! One of our favorite natural cleaners is white vinegar diluted in water. You can also use plain dish soap dissolved in warm water. You can even clean a greasy oven window with a simple paste made from baking soda and water.

To clean oven racks, remove them and scrub them in the sink (or even in the tub, if you need the space) with dish soap or baking soda paste. Use a scrub brush on tough spots, or let them soak, allowing stains to soften.

It may sound like a big effort to clean the oven with elbow grease rather than by pressing a button. That’s why we suggest regularly wiping down the oven, preventing a big mess from taking hold!

The post You’re Using Your Self-Cleaning Oven the Wrong Way—Here’s How appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Where is the crumb tray?

TikTok creator @kacie_thebigcleanco posted a video on TikTok featuring the crumb tray. In the video, her voiceover says, “There are cleaning ‘hacks’ going around the internet that are not really hacks at all. They make it harder. I’m a professional cleaner, and this week I was sent one: ‘Clean your toaster with a hair dryer!'”

This refers to an odd piece of cleaning advice that makes its way around the internet every few years. It says that blowing a hair dryer into the toaster slots will push loose food down into the crumb tray for easy removal. But, as Kacie says, “just tip it in the bin.”

She wipes crumbs off the top of the toaster, removes the crumb tray from down below and empties it in the trash before replacing it. Kacie also gives the entire toaster a quick shake over the garbage to dislodge the remaining crumbs—no hair dryer required.

Ironically, her video intended to show how easy cleaning a toaster can be, sans elaborate “hacks.” But that’s not what viewers took from it.

“Wait? Toasters have trays?” wrote one commenter. “There’s a TRAY?!?!?!?!!” wrote another. “Do all toasters have that?” asked yet another.

Is there a hidden crumb tray on every toaster?

The Mirror is even riffing on this TikTok video, using it as the jumping-off point to discuss the “hidden” toaster compartment that’s “blowing people’s minds.” This compartment isn’t a secret, though. It’s always been there, and it slides out easily from underneath the slots so you can tidily remove the crumbs.

To say that it’s “always” been there isn’t even that much of a stretch. The automatic pop-up toaster as we know it came about in the 1920s, and by 1939, General Electric had filed a patent for the toaster’s slide-out crumb tray.

If you’ve never noticed the tray, that’s probably because it’s located on the short end opposite from the side that has the levers and buttons. But it should indeed be there—it’s too effective not to build into virtually every model. Even my $12 generic toaster from Target has this simple and effective feature.

How often do you empty the crumb tray?

This depends entirely on how often you use your toaster, and what you toast in there. If you’re eating everything bagels on the daily, check it about once a week. If you use your toaster sporadically like me, check the tray every half-dozen uses and be sure to dump out any crumbs you find. No need to do anything more extensive than that for regular maintenance, but do clean out your crumb tray, or the crumbs will build up and lead to acrid, burnt bits that risk catching on fire in the toaster.

We live in a (literally) golden age of toast innovation. As long as you treat your appliance right, you should be able to enjoy avocado toast, panzanella salads and open-faced tuna melts without incident.

The post TikTok Users Just Discovered the Toaster Crumb Tray appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Can you put aluminum foil in the oven?

You can absolutely put aluminum foil in your oven—with some caveats.

Aluminum foil is composed of ultra-thin, food-safe metal that can be bent, crumpled and otherwise wrapped around dishes to form a heatproof barrier during the cooking process. Unlike a cookie sheet, foil that’s been in the oven is cool to the touch soon after removing it. The material doesn’t conduct much heat, which is why it’s great at preventing foods from overbaking.

You can line a baking sheet with foil while cooking to keep it clean from oil and other stubborn food residue, or you can cover a dish with foil if you don’t want the top of something like a casserole to brown before the rest has a chance to cook through. You can even crimp a length of foil around a pie crust to make sure it doesn’t get too overbaked and brittle. But lining the bottom of the oven with aluminum foil to catch spills is a big “no.”

Why can’t you line the oven with foil?

The bottom of the oven might look like a blank expanse of enamel, but it’s hiding one of the appliance’s central heating elements. Foil can easily handle the ambient heat circulating around a baking sheet, but when it makes direct contact with that bottom heating element, that’s way too much intensity, and the foil can melt rapidly, fusing to the appliance such that no amount of oven cleaner can remove it. (Do not ask me how I know this.) You might have to replace the bottom panel of your oven for a hefty sum, or pay even more to replace the damaged heating element entirely. (I repeat, DO NOT ask me how I know this.)

Even if the worst-case scenario doesn’t occur, lining your oven with aluminum foil can scratch the finishes in an oven, and won’t even achieve the desired results. As appliance manufacturer Whirlpool explains, using foil as a liner can block the flow of heat from the oven’s lower vents, restricting airflow and leading to uneven, improperly cooked food.

In fact, if you check inside your oven right now, you might find a warning stamped directly into its floor: DO NOT PUT FOIL ON BOTTOM. (Alas, some of us aren’t very observant.)

How do you keep the oven clean?

When it comes to oven mishaps, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Keep the bottom of your oven clean by considering the particular needs of the dish you’re making: Is it something that might bubble up over the edges of its vessel, like a fruit pie? If so, place it on a baking sheet inside the oven to catch drips. Is it something that might sizzle, pop or even go rocketing around from the heat, like a stray roasted chickpea? Tent some foil over the pan on the center rack, tucking the loose ends under the edges of the baking dish.

If you do accidentally spill food in the bottom of the oven while removing a dish, turn off the oven and let the internal temperature cool down before wiping it away.

The post You Should Never Line the Bottom of Your Oven with Foil—Here’s Why appeared first on Taste Recipes.

I’m sorry to be the one to break the news, but baseboards do need to be cleaned regularly. How to clean baseboards and how often you clean them is up to you. I recommend at least once a month, but some people run the vacuum over them every time they clean the floors (admittedly, I’m not that committed).

There are a few different techniques and baseboard cleaning hacks to make this task a little easier, and I’ve tried em’ all. I’ll walk you through the best methods to clean your baseboards and make them sparkle. It’s time to scrub!

How to Clean Baseboards with Vinegar

Tools You’ll Need

• Bucket
• Microfiber cloth
• Vinegar
• Dish soap

Method

Once again, vinegar and dish soap to the rescue. This tried-and-true combination works on floors, walls and yep—baseboards. Fill a small bucket with hot water, then add about 1 cup vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon dish soap. This combination will cut grease and grime without damaging the paint. Dip a microfiber cloth in the cleaning solution, wring out excess water, then wipe down baseboards from top to bottom. Change out the cleaning water as it gets dirty.

This method works, but requires you to scrub while down on your hands and knees. If your baseboards are extra dusty, run a vacuum over them before using the cleaning solution or the excessive dust will soil the water too quickly.

How to Clean Baseboards with Dryer Sheets

Tools You’ll Need

• Vacuum with crevice attachment
• Dryer sheets
• Rubber band

Method

This baseboard cleaning hack, as demonstrated here by @nicole_thenomad is a quick and easy way to dust baseboards. Install the crevice attachment on your vacuum. (It looks like a long hollow tube with an angled tip.) Then, secure a dryer sheet around the end with a rubber band or hair tie. Vacuum the baseboards by running the dryer sheet-topped attachment along the ledge. Periodically check the dryer sheet as you work; when it becomes dirty or tears, adjust the sheet on the vacuum so you’re always using a clean section.

The magic of this method is the dryer sheet not only picks up dust and smells great, it also leaves behind a thin layer of film that repels dust, protecting your baseboards in between cleanings. Keep in mind, this method works best on baseboards with a light layer of dust. It’s not going to help with heavy buildup.

How to Clean Really Dirty Baseboards

If your baseboards are extra dirty with sticky, stubborn grime, use a steam cleaner. It doesn’t matter what type of steam cleaner you use, as long as it has a handheld nozzle attachment that can direct a steady spray of steam onto your baseboards. I recommend this multipurpose steam cleaner, or a steam mop like this with a handheld attachment.

Spray the steam onto your baseboards, then wipe away the dirt and water with a cloth. Work in small sections at a time, taking care not to soak baseboards with too much moisture. The hot steam loosens all that built-up gunk, making it easy to wipe away without scrubbing.

The post How to Clean Baseboards appeared first on Taste Recipes.

On Sale

EMIKO FRANZEN FOR TASTE OF HOME

Weight: 8.55 lbs. | Run Time: 42 min  | Bin Size: 0.72 qt. | Attachments: Duster Crevice Tool, Anti-Allergen Brush | Converts to Handheld: Yes

After flawlessly eliminating debris on both carpet and tile with not a crumb left behind, the Product Testing Team recommends the Shark Stratos as the overall best Shark cordless vacuum cleaner. Not only does it handle big messes like pet hair and cereal spills like a champ, but the Shark Stratos also gets deep into corners with excellent edge-to-edge coverage, never missing a single spot.

This cordless vacuum comes with two handy attachments for tackling dust and allergens on upholstery and shelving, plus a myriad of features for tackling dirt on tile and carpet. Glitter, cornflakes and real human hair are no match for the easy- for flawlessly glide wheels and CleanIQ’s auto-adjusting suction.

LED lights guide the way in low-light spaces like closets and under furniture, and the clearance of the Stratos is by far the most impressive out of the entire Shark cordless vacuum lineup, being just shy of three inches. This makes it great for getting under couches and maneuvering around table legs. In addition, we found that its agility didn’t dampen the suction, which easily picked up large debris on both high- and low-pile carpets.

Apart from the impressive suction, the Testing Team notes that the wheels help it readily glide over higher-pile carpet, making it easier to navigate than many of the other brands we’ve tried. Intuitive cleaning instructions and a robust battery that lasts over 40 minutes bolster this winner’s performance. There’s no need to rush to clean in less than an hour, either—the removable battery means opting for a second one doubles the cleaning time.

Those looking for an equally impressive performance without the bells and whistles should snag the Shark Vertex instead. It offers similar features and a similar price without the additional attachments.

On Sale

EMIKO FRANZEN FOR TASTE OF HOME

Best Budget Shark Cordless Vacuum

Shark Cordless Pro

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399.9945% OFF$219.99 at Amazon

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Weight: 7.25 lbs. | Run Time: 29 min | Bin Size: 0.72 qt. | Attachments: Crevice Tool, Brush Combo Tool, Pet Brush-Tool | Converts to Handheld: Yes

While the Shark Stratos performed the best overall, it also comes at the highest price point. For a budget pick, we prefer the Shark Cordless Pro. The Cordless Pro isn’t as robust as the Stratos, but it comes with similarly show-stopping features. Plus, at a full $100 cheaper, it’s also much more affordable.

Sense IQ automatically adjusts suction to tackle bigger messes, and a lit control panel indicates power level and simplifies switching between hard surface and carpet modes. On tile, this pick offered solid performance—it doesn’t push around larger debris like cornflakes, as do other brands we tested. It’s also passable on carpet, though we recommend springing for the Stratos or the Pet Plus if you have more carpet than tile or hardwood in your house.

We appreciate the inclusion of the multi-purpose pet tool, which impressed us with its wide-head brush and flathead options. Both sucked so much dust from our dusty dining chair that it actually changed the color of the upholstery to a whiter white. Overall, this was our favorite of all the Shark attachments.

Just like the Stratos, the Shark Cordless Pro easily converts to a handheld vacuum. This is super handy for tackling shelving and eliminating debris from couches and crevices. A manual boost function bolsters its performance when faced with especially high carpet or big pieces of debris. Overall, it’s a bit of a bust on extremely hairy floors (hair tends to collect and wrap in the brush roll), but it’s a solid pick for households without pets.

On Sale

EMIKO FRANZEN FOR TASTE OF HOME

Best Shark Cordless Vacuum for Pets

Shark Pet Plus

329.999% OFF$299.99 at Amazon

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Weight: 7.45 lbs. | Run Time: 19 min | Bin Size: 0.34 qt. | Attachments: Upholstery tool, Anti-Allergen Dust Brush, Crevice Tool | Converts to Handheld: Yes

At a full $150 less than the price of the Shark Stratos, the Shark Pet Plus makes up for its more modest performance with its fleet of pet-centric features. An upholstery tool de-furs furniture, while an anti-allergen dust brush and crevice tool pull up dander with ease. Like the other best Shark cordless vacuum cleaners on this list, it also boasts two handy LED headlights that highlight errant hair.

A pull-trigger boost mode gives a little more control over extra dirty digs, especially when used in conjunction with the upholstery tool. One area the Pet Plus struggles with is tile. Instead of picking up debris, it pushed most of it around. That said, it operates nearly flawlessly on both high- and low-pile carpet and kitchen rugs, snatching up hair and debris without clogging the brush roll.

Despite having smaller wheels than its pricier cousins, this pick glides readily over most carpet and easily maneuvers around furniture and under tables. It’s similarly easy to clean, with all filters coming clean with plain running water.

Given the lower price point, we’d say this is a solid choice for anyone expecting a vacuum that works incredibly well on pet hair, carpets and upholstery. Those looking for a machine that operates equally well on tile should spring for the more luxurious Shark Stratos or utilitarian Cordless Pro.

Other Shark Vacuums We Tested

• Shark Vertex: Our Product Testing Team liked the performance of the Shark Vertex. When testing the vacuum across vinyl and carpet, it did a solid job sucking up glitter and cornflakes. The Shark Vertex is very similar to the Shark Stratos listed above in terms of design and included features. However, our team determined the Stratos ultimately performed better than the Vertex.
• Shark Pet Cordless: The Shark Pet Cordless had difficulty picking up glitter and cornflakes on vinyl and low-pile carpets. While it cleaned the high-pile carpet better, it still struggled to pick up messes in corners and along the wall. If you have a lot of area rugs in your home, this Shark vacuum may be a solid budget pick for you. The single-brush roller has a higher profile that works well on carpet but not as well on hard surfaces.

What To Look for When Buying a Cordless Vacuum

Apart from intuitive features, myriad attachments and powerful suction, the best Shark cordless vacuum cleaners are easier to handle than traditional upright vacuums. According to cleaning professional and Director of the Indoor Health Council, Allen Rathey, cordless vacuums “are more portable than corded models, with less trip hazard, and potentially enable more cleaning, although not always better cleaning as they are usually less powerful than corded models. Cordless vacuums excel on stairs, though caution is needed as you are toting some weight.”

According to Allen, you should first consider your flooring type. “Carpeting and tile require different toolsets and capabilities,” he says. “Carpet in homes needs both suction and powered agitation, while tile mainly needs powerful suction directed through a static brush tool having a narrow opening to increase air velocity.”

He also says that attachments should play a large role in your final choice. “For general carpet care, a powered brush roll attachment or beater-brush head is important to loosen soils for removal from cut pile carpet, and a powered hand-held brush-roll attachment helps with pet hair.”

Other important aspects to consider include whether your family suffers from allergies, pet hair or other health-related needs and—of course—your budget. “Read reviews and test the vac you are considering before you buy it. If you can’t borrow the vacuum to test, then buy one from a retailer with a good return policy,” he says.

Not sure where you fall in the Shark vs. Dyson debate? One place where Shark vacuums shine is their value. While Dyson vacuums offer scientifically backed machines with an excellent reputation for quality, their products often tip towards four-figure price points. On the other hand, Shark tops out at around $499 for even their luxe models—which is closer to the price of Dyson’s budget line.

How We Found the Best Shark Cordless Vacuum Cleaner

Our expert Product Testing Team tested five popular models of Shark vacuums in our Product Testing Lab. We looked at the following considerations, creating a detailed profile for each and ranked each product a total numbered score out of 30. Points accumulate in the following areas:

• Packaging and setup
• Specs and features
• Performance
• Accessories
• Cleaning and emptying
• Value

To begin with, we examined what arrived in the box and the condition of the packaging. We then noted assembly time and observed the time it takes to charge each battery. Then, we examined the weight of each vacuum and its decibels while running in different modes.

We noted extras like lights, HEPA filters, LED screens and whether it converts to a handheld. Visual considerations like attractiveness and color selection also weigh into our overall score. We also considered accessories and their performance, like between cushions and on dusty shelving.

To assess overall performance, we opted to test a handful of different debris. These include cornflakes, glitter and real human hair (yes—really!). We tested each on tile and high- and low-pile carpet (except hair, which was only tested on carpet). Lastly, we followed the manufacturer’s cleaning and emptying instructions, noting any difficulties in the cleaning process and the effectiveness of the suggested cleaning methods.

After examining each vacuum’s performance, we decided if it was worth the price, which determined its value rating. From there, we looked at each vacuum’s total score and picked the best options for this piece.

FAQ

How do you clean a Shark cordless vacuum?

Press the release button near the handheld vacuum to remove the dust cup from the handheld vacuum nozzle. Rinse filters with water only and allow to air-dry completely for up to 48 hours before reinstalling. The number of filters and their location depend on the model.

How do you charge a Shark cordless vacuum?

Simply plug the charger into the port on the vacuum to charge it. It’s usually located at the top near the handle.

How do you remove a roller brush from a Shark cordless vacuum?

Some rollers on Shark vacuums are fixed in place, so they cannot be removed for cleaning. To properly remove and clean the brush roll, it’s best to check the user manual for your model.

Which Shark vacuum has the strongest suction?

It’s tough to measure how strong a vacuum cleaner’s suction is, but all of the Shark vacuums performed decently well in our cleaning tests. If you’re looking for super powerful suction, we recommend our top pick, the Shark Stratos.

Is Shark PowerDetect worth it?

We didn’t test out any of Shark’s PowerDetect vacuum cleaners. The brand’s cordless PowerDetect model has some great features, including 70 minutes of run time, forward and reverse pickup and a 5-year warranty. However, it’s pretty expensive at around $500.

Why You Should Trust Us

Our testing team has three years of combined experience testing and evaluating everything from the best toasters to the best flower delivery services. Our product testing experts spend around 40 hours conducting firsthand research in our Testing Lab, including sourcing and researching products. We strive to recommend the best products using honest and fair testing practices and never recommend a product we don’t love, regardless of how popular or big the brand is.

In order to inform this article, we spoke to Allen Rathey, an educator specializing in Healthy Facilities. He has assembled an advisory group of scientists, PhDs, facility and public health experts who share his passion for helping people everywhere create and maintain safe, healthy indoor environments. He is past-president of The Housekeeping Channel (HC), The Healthy House Institute (HHI), The Healthy Facilities Institute (HFI), and current Director of the Indoor Health Council (IHC). He is the principal of Winning Environments, LLC, promoting best practices that enhance the living, working, and learning environment.

The post Tested and Reviewed: The Best Shark Cordless Vacuum Cleaners appeared first on Taste Recipes.

That’s where “everyone’s grandmother,” aka Babs Costello, saves the day. Because, of course she does! 74-year old TikTok sensation @brunchwithbabs) has share all types of household hacks, in and out of the kitchen. Her tips cut our pumpkin carving time in half this Halloween. Now, let’s say goodbye to pesky water rings and stains after Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years, the Babs way.

5 Tricks to Help Clean Up After Your Guests

“Are you planning any holiday get-togethers?” Babs asks. If so, follow these holiday cleaning tips that are fully grandma-approved.

Remove water rings with mayonnaise

It can be a pain to constantly remind guests to use a coaster. And, let’s face it, water rings on surfaces during a gathering are inevitable. Babs tells us not to sweat it. Just grab a couple paper towels and dab some mayonnaise on the water ring. Yes, mayonnaise! Don’t clean it up right away. Instead, leave the paper towel over the stain for a few hours or as long as overnight. Then apply furniture cleaner for extra polish. Voila, stain be gone.

One commenter endorsed the trick, saying the water ring “was gone in the morning” after leaving the mayo overnight. I’m adding this to my go-to cleaning hacks, immediately.

Get rid of red wine stains with white wine

It’s devastating to see red wine stains on the carpet. Luckily, Babs works her magic by removing the stain with…white wine! Babs advises pouring “just enough to cover” directly onto the stain before blotting with a clean cloth or paper towels. If the stain persists, sprinkle baking soda on top. Let it sit for five minutes, vacuum it up and blot again. Finish with dish detergent and water-soaked paper towels.

Bonus: This trick also works on tablecloths!

Hand-wash wine glasses for a spotless finish

Save dishwasher space “and get the glasses spotless,” Babs says. First, wash and dry the glasses individually rather than loading them into the dishwasher. Put the glasses in warm soapy water and hand wash to get the rims nice and clean. Sanitize glasses by draining the sink, refilling it with warm water and adding 1/2 cup of white vinegar. Soak the glasses for around five minutes, then rinse and dry.

Use a cheap homemade surface cleaner

Put your spotless wine glasses on spotless surfaces! Babs shares this recipe for homemade surface cleaner: “two parts water to one part white vinegar, [and] stir,” before pouring into a spray bottle. Spray the cleaner onto paper towels or a clean cloth and make your surfaces dazzle.

Keep your floor mop clean

Before you mop, Babs says to wrap a paper towel around your mop head and spray it with a cleaner of choice. (Babs uses Viva paper towels and her own homemade cleaner.) Mop away!

In Babs’ Instagram comments, one fan says, “I want to come to Babs and Mr. Babs house for the next party!” And with holiday cleaning tips like these, we can’t help but agree!

The post 5 Simple Holiday Cleaning Tips from Babs Costello, ‘The Internet’s Grandma’ appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Buying the individual ingredients and putting them together yourself lets you choose exactly what goes into your laundry detergent. Homemade cleaners can be environmentally friendly too, both in their ingredients and in their packaging. Instead of buying single-use plastic containers of liquid detergent, you can make powdered detergent from ingredients packaged in paper and cardboard and store your final blend in a reusable airtight container.

Before You Start

Choose a soap that’s free of chemicals, fragrance and dyes, such as castile bar soap. Washing soda (sodium carbonate), sometimes sold as soda ash or crystals, is just baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) that has been heated to remove its natural moisture. It absorbs odors and brightens fabrics.

A few optional ingredients boost basic laundry detergent. Borax, a naturally occurring salt, acts as a softener and helps remove stains. However, a high pH makes it potentially irritating to skin, so leave it out if you have sensitivities. Keep the blend scent-free or, if you like a fragrant detergent, look for an essential oil at a local drugstore or natural goods store.

The powders in a detergent mix can be quite fine. If you’re concerned about breathing in the particles, put on a mask or choose a well-ventilated or outdoor space for detergent prep. Directly handling large volumes of the dry ingredients can be more irritating to skin than dissolving them in a load of wash, so pull on gloves before you begin.

It can be difficult to remove the soapy taste from the tools you use when making detergent at home, so you may want dedicated ones for this project.

How to Make Your Own Homemade Laundry Detergent

@haleigh021 #laundrydetergent #cleantok #moneysavingtips #savemoney #cleaningtips #momtok #momtips #familyof5 ♬ Heart Like A Truck – Lainey Wilson

This recipe yields about six cups of detergent, enough for up to 96 loads of laundry.

Ingredients

• 1 bar of soap, five ounces
• 2 cups baking soda
• 2 cups washing soda

Optional:

• 2 teaspoons Borax
• 6 to 10 drops essential oil, such as lavender or lemon

Tools

• Cheese Grater: Choose a grater that will give you fine shreds of soap. The finer the shreds, the more easily the soap will dissolve in water.
• Large Mixing Bowl: A large, wide bowl lets you stir the lowest layer of powder into the mix without creating a cloud of particles.
• Half-Gallon Mason Jar with Lid: An airtight lid on a glass jar or other storage container will help prevent clumping.

Directions

Step 1: Grate the soap

Using the cheese grater, grate the soap into fine shreds. Measure two cups of soap shreds into a large mixing bowl, storing any extra soap in an airtight container to use in your next batch.

Step 2: Mix in the powders

Slowly pour the baking soda and washing soda into the mixing bowl. If desired, add borax and a few drops of essential oil. Using a large wooden spoon, stir until well combined, using a gentle motion to keep the particles from dispersing into the air.

Editor’s Tip: If you devote a food processor to detergent making, you can create a finer powder with the machine’s grating and blending attachments. After stopping the food processor, let the mixture sit for a couple of minutes, until the dusty powder settles, before opening the lid.

Step 3: Store the detergent

Slowly pour or scoop the detergent into a half-gallon jar and seal it with an airtight lid. Label container and store it in a dry place out of reach of children.

How to Use Homemade Laundry Detergent

On laundry day, measure one or two tablespoons, for a small or a large load, into the drum of your washing machine before adding the laundry and starting the machine. Adding the homemade detergent directly to the washer drum keeps soap flakes from clogging the machine’s dispenser. If you have hard water and notice soap scum, reduce the volume of soap in your next mix.

Homemade Laundry Detergent FAQs

Does homemade laundry detergent go bad?

Laundry detergent won’t spoil, but it can clump and harden. Mixing it frequently in small batches keeps the detergent loose and powdery.

The dryness of washing soda helps minimize the moisture in the blend, but it’s still important to keep the detergent in a tightly sealed container and store it in a nonhumid place. A dry upper cupboard is a better location than under the laundry room sink or on a shelf over the dryer.

Can I use homemade laundry detergent on whites and delicates?

DIY detergent brightens whites and gently cleans delicate clothing, so you can use it on all of your laundry. Adding borax can help tackle tough stains, but as a potential irritant, it may be best left out of detergent for delicates.

Homemade detergent can also be used to pretreat stains, but leaving it on too long might weaken delicate fabrics and affect colors. It’s better to load and start the machine than let fabrics sit overnight against the detergent.

The post How to Make Homemade Laundry Detergent So You Never Have to Buy It Again appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Can Lemons Really Clean An Oven?

It’s no secret that lemons are great for cleaning. The bright yellow citrus contains both citric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Acids are effective at removing stains, cleaning off limescale and can even fight rust. Lemons are also naturally antibacterial and can neutralize odors. I’ve used lemons to clean my microwave and garbage disposal, with positive results.

But the oven seemed a little more daunting. The glass door was brown with stains, and the bottom of the oven wasn’t much better. In the past, I’ve mostly stuck to Easy-Off to clean my oven, and while it works—I’d love to take a more natural approach.

How to Use Lemons As an Oven Cleaning Hack

I followed the instructions from the viral video by TikTok user @yagmuronerr (she posted more details in the comments) to clean my oven with a lemon. Follow along to conduct your own lemon-cleaner experiment!

Step 1: Preheat the oven

Preheat your oven to 400°F. The idea behind the hack, is that the hot water and lemon create a steam and soften the stains inside the oven while the lemon water heats.

Step 2: Slice the lemon

Slice the lemon into thick slices. I sliced my lemon into four slices. I figured with the high temperature, I wanted the lemons to be pretty robust so they wouldn’t simply shrivel into tiny bits while they “cooked.”

Step 3: Add lemons and water to dish

Fill an oven-safe bowl or dish with water, then add the lemon slices. I squeezed the lemons slices so the lemon juice would mix with the water before dropping in the slices.

Step 4: Bake

“Bake” the lemon water in the oven for 20 minutes at 400°.

Step 5: Cool and clean

After the lemon water has baked for 20 minutes, turn off the oven and allow the water to cool for about 10 to 20 minutes. (I attempted to move onto cleaning after 10 minutes, but the water was still too hot to touch so I let it cool an additional 10 minutes with the oven open.) Once cooled, dip a microfiber cloth in the lemon water, and scrub the oven interior and door.

Results: Not Bad!

I’ll admit, I didn’t have high hopes that one simple lemon would be strong enough to clean my oven. But it worked pretty well! It definitely didn’t get the oven glass as squeaky clean as a heavy-duty oven cleaner, but you can see how much grime and grease I was able to wipe off with my cloth. It was even more effective on the bottom of the oven, where I was able to remove most the stains. I think next time, I might increase the baking time as well as the cooling time; hopefully creating more steam. The bottom line: I won’t be giving up my Easy-Off anytime soon, but I think the lemon hack is great as a quick method, used in between deep cleaning sessions.

The post We Tested the Oven Cleaning Hack That Uses 1 Ingredient appeared first on Taste Recipes.

We’ve found that hand-washing is the safest bet for causing the least amount of damage, but sometimes you might need a deeper clean. Here are some of our favorite methods on how to wash a baseball cap.

How to Hand-Wash a Baseball Cap

Most cap brands like New Era, lululemon and Brixton suggest hand-washing their hats to avoid shrinking or warping the shape. And you should always hand-wash vintage hats; those made before 1983 usually feature a cardboard bill that will warp if it gets wet (current hats have a durable plastic bill). When hand-washing, you can spot-clean or fully submerge the hat. Here’s how to do both:

Spot Clean Method

Remove dust and loose dirt by spraying the hat with condensed air or by using a bristled vacuum attachment. Apply a mild, color-safe detergent (like Woolite) to the sweat band and other visible stains, then scrub with a damp cloth or soft toothbrush. Rinse away the soap with a clean, damp cloth. Air dry on a towel. You can wad up a clean T-shirt and place it under the cap to help preserve the shape as it dries.

According to New Era, you shouldn’t spot clean across color panels. To prevent bleeding, clean only one color at a time.

Soak Method

For cotton twill, acrylic and polyblend caps, Brixton recommends hand-washing by fully submerging the hat. Fill a bucket or sink with cool or slightly warm water. Add a teaspoon of gentle, nonbleach detergent; then swish the water around to make suds. Soak the cap for 15-30 minutes. Rinse the cap under cool, running water until all the suds are gone. Gently squeeze out excess water without twisting or pulling. Air dry.

How to Wash a Baseball Cap in the Washing Machine

Some hats, including cotton, cotton blend, acrylic or mesh caps (with plastic bills) are sturdy enough to wash in the washing machine.

1. Pretreat any tough stains with a nonbleach stain remover.
2. Place the hat inside a laundry bag, pillowcase or hat form to protect it from the washer agitation.
3. Wash the cap along with a small load of clothes on the gentle cycle with slow spin speeds, cool water and a mild detergent.
4. Air dry on a towel. Never place a cap in the dryer, which can cause damage and shrinkage.

How to Wash a Baseball Cap in the Dishwasher

Baseball cap brands will never officially suggest you wash a cap in the dishwasher, but it’s a popular hack and worth a try if you want to give your hat a deep clean. And because a dishwasher won’t tumble and toss your hat like a washing machine will, some people prefer this method.

1. Place the hat on the top rack of an empty dishwasher. This is an easy way to wash multiple hats—place as many as you can fit on the top rack. You can use a hat form to better preserve the shape.
2. Add a gentle, bleach-free dishwasher detergent pod to the soap dispenser.
3. Run a light wash cycle on a warm or cool temperature. Select no dry or low-heat dry.
4. The hat(s) should still be a little damp when the cycle is done. Air dry on a towel.

Before proceeding with the dishwasher method, keep in mind that hand-washing is always the best choice if you’re worried about damaging the shape or color of your hat.

The post How to Wash a Baseball Cap Using Three Methods appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Do You Need to Wash Potatoes?

You sure do. “Since potatoes grow in dirt, it’s important to wash them thoroughly before cooking, which helps prevent food-borne illness,” says RJ Harvey, RDN, CEC, culinary director at Potatoes USA, the national marketing and promotion board representing U.S. growers and importers.

Additionally, washing with water helps to eliminate most of the pesticide residues from the potato tubers, according to a study published in the journal Food and Chemical Toxicology.

When to Wash Potatoes

Potatoes should never be washed until you’re ready to use them, because a dry environment helps maximize their shelf life. Before we dive into how to wash potatoes, let’s talk about when to wash them.

Do you wash potatoes before storing?

“I don’t wash potatoes before storing them because it could cause them to go bad faster or trigger a mold if moisture is left on them,” explains Chef Rachel Ponce, resident chef and recipe developer of Edible Magazine: San Luis Obispo. “If you want to prepare your potatoes ahead of time and store them, I recommend washing them, peeling (if peeling), and storing them in cold water with vinegar or lemon juice. This will keep the potatoes fresh and not change color.”

Do you wash potatoes before peeling?

Yes, washing potatoes before peeling them is a great way to continue to maintain cleanliness so that there isn’t any cross-contamination, says Jason Paluska, executive chef of The Lark in Santa Barbara. Otherwise, the dirt could get on your hands or your vegetable peeler and contaminate the peeled potato.

Do you wash potatoes before baking?

Always wash your potatoes before baking them. “If you bake your potato and then slice into it, your knife will spread the dirt into the center of your baked potato,” says Ponce. “And honestly, don’t you want to eat the skin smothered in an unconditional amount of sour cream and chives? You need to have cleaned the skin to enjoy that safely.”

How to Wash Potatoes the Right Way

The best practice, according to Harvey, is to scrub your potatoes with a vegetable brush under cool running water (read: do not use soap or other cleaning agents). Alternatively, fill a large sink with cool water, add the potatoes and gently scrub with a light vegetable brush—be sure to get in all the notches and crevices. “The dirt will drop to the bottom of the sink, and the potatoes can be placed in a colander until ready to use,” he says.

How gentle or aggressive you want to be while washing away the dirt depends on the type of potato you’re working with. “The softer the skin, the more delicate the potato is—so potatoes such as fingerling, red and waxy don’t need more than running water and your hands,” says Ponce. “You can always soak for 5 minutes in water if you have some stubborn dirt spots that are not coming off with your fingertips. Scrub away on those thick guys, such as russet and sweet potatoes.”

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We’re sharing everything you need to know about how to wash a comforter (including the more fussy down-filled version) because there’s nothing quite as comforting as slipping into cool, clean bedding at the end of a long day.

How Often Should You Wash Your Comforter?

Generally, you should wash a comforter filled with cotton, polyester or a down alternative about every month. If you have pets that sleep in your bed or you suffer from allergies, you might want to increase the frequency. If your comforter is protected by a separate duvet cover (common for down comforters) it only needs to be washed about twice a year, but be sure to watch the duvet cover every week or two.

How to Wash a Comforter

Tools You’ll Need

• Laundry detergent
• Stain remover (if needed)
• Large capacity or commercial washer and dryer
• Tennis balls or wool dryer balls

Directions

Step 1: Shake

Shake out your comforter to get rid of any loose dirt or crumbs and to evenly distribute the filling before washing.

Step 2: Spot treat

For any visible stains, apply stain remover. OxiClean Max Force Foam Laundry Pre-Treater is highly-reviewed and safe to use on your bedding. Apply to stains and let it sit for about 10 minutes.

Step 3: Machine wash

Be sure your washer is large enough to handle a fluffy comforter (at least 5 cubic feet) so the comforter has room to agitate while it washes. Place the comforter loosely in the washer. Then set the wash cycle to bulky, bedding or delicate wash, depending on what settings are available on your particular washing machine. Wash on cold or warm water and use a fragrance-free detergent, which is gentle on fabric and your skin.

Step 4: Dry

Like the washer, your dryer also needs to be sufficiently sized to allow the comforter to tumble-dry; it should be at least 7 cubic feet. Place the comforter in the dryer, spreading it out as much as possible. If smashed into a tight wad, it will not dry evenly. Add two to three tennis balls or wool dryer balls. These will help fluff the comforter while it dries and prevent the filling from bunching together and making it lumpy. Set the heat on low.

If your dryer isn’t large enough, hang dry the comforter indoors or outside.

How to Wash a Down Comforter

A down comforter is filled with fluffy feathers, literally duck or geese feathers. To prolong the life of a down comforter, it should be protected with a duvet cover and shouldn’t be washed as often as other types of comforters; usually twice a year is sufficient.

Fortunately, many down comforters are safe to machine wash and can be put in the dryer too—but check the care label for any recommended settings. You can follow the same steps for washing a regular comforter (unless the care label notes that it should be professionally laundered). Between washings, spot clean by applying a gentle detergent directly to the stain and then rinse with a damp cloth.

Tips for Proper Care and Maintenance

• When drying, sometimes it’s a good idea to stop the dryer midway through the cycle and give the comforter a good shake, then place it back in the dryer to finish the drying process. This helps prevent any damp spots getting trapped in the folds.
• Store comforters loosely folded on a shelf or inside a cotton bag in a breathable space to prevent musky smells and mildew.
• To re-fluff a comforter without washing it, run it through the dryer on a heatless air-fluff cycle.
• If your washer and dryer are not large enough for your comforter, take it to a professional cleaner. A down comforter should be professionally laundered, not dry cleaned. Harsh dry-cleaning chemicals can damage the down.

The post How to Wash a Comforter to Prevent Dust Mites and Keep It Soft appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Keep in mind, sometimes it’s safer to follow the rules (please, don’t throw your wool three-piece suit in the washer), but some fabrics do have a little more wiggle room when it comes to their care. For those garments, here’s how to dry clean at home.

Can You Wash Dry Clean Only Clothes?

If the care label on your clothing says “dry clean only,” don’t put it into your washing machine. However, clothing tags marked “dry clean” or “dry clean recommended” may be washed at home if you follow the right steps.

Take a look at the type of fabric as well. Clothing made of suede, leather, sequined items, velvet and anything with fur should be dry cleaned. Cotton, polyester, linen and even silk and wool can usually be safely washed at home. Here are a few tips to clean your suede shoes.

How to Wash Dry Clean Only Clothes at Home

Machine Wash

To machine wash your dry clean items at home, turn them inside out and place them in the washer. Wash on the gentle or delicate cycle, with cold water and a mild detergent. The gentle cycle uses a low-speed spin and mild wash action to reduce the risk of damaging or tangling clothes. And cold water makes clothes less likely to shrink, fade or pill. Remove the clothing from the machine as soon as the cycle ends, and then lay flat to dry.

Hand Wash

For extra delicate clothing, skip the washing machine and hand wash instead. Fill a clean sink or washing tub with cold water and add a small amount of detergent, stir the water by hand to activate the suds. Immerse clothing into the soapy water and gently swish it around with your hands. Empty the sink or tub, then fill it again with cold, clean water. Rinse the clothing, and repeat as needed until all the soap is gone.

Then, gently squeeze out the excess water (do not wring) and lay flat to dry. If needed, you can also roll the garment up in a dry towel to gently remove the water before air drying.

Dry Cleaning Kit

At-home dry cleaning kits like the Woolite At-Home Dry Cleaner refresh clothes in the dryer. They can work well on lightly soiled clothes you’ve only worn once or twice for a short period of time. First, spot-clean the garment with the included stain wipes. Then place the clothes in the dryer along with one of the dryer-activated cleaning cloths. Tumble dry on medium heat for 20 minutes. The cleaning cloth will help lift away odors and release wrinkles. Remove clothes immediately after the dryer cycle has stopped.

The post How to Dry Clean at Home in 3 Ways appeared first on Taste Recipes.

While you’re at it, also figure out how to remove sweat stains from hats.

How to Hand-Wash Clothes

Tools

• Wash basin or clean sink
• Cold water
• Stain remover
• Gentle liquid laundry detergent

Directions

Step 1: Read the care label

Check the label for specific care instructions. If it says “dry-clean only,” it’s best to take it to a professional. Know your laundry symbols—did you know the triangle is the symbol for bleach? The hand-washing symbol is usually a hand reaching into a wash basin.

Step 2: Spot treat stains

Check for stains and spot treat with your choice of stain remover. You can apply a little laundry detergent directly to the stain or choose a delicate-friendly stain spray. Puracy Stain Remover and Grandma’s Secret Spot Remover are both free of bleach, dyes and phosphates. Allow the stain remover to sit for a few minutes.

Step 3: Fill your sink or tub with water

Fill a clean sink or wash tub with cool water; hot water can cause some delicate fabrics to shrink or bleed. Add a small amount of liquid laundry detergent (more or less depending on the size of the wash basin and how many clothes you’re washing). Some good detergent options for washing delicates are Tide Free and Gentle and Woolite Delicates.

Step 4: Submerge and soak your clothes in soapy water

Submerge the clothing. Gently agitate the water and swish around the clothing in the soapy water. Allow clothes to soak for 5 to 10 minutes.

Step 5: Rinse and squeeze out excess water

Empty the basin and refill it with clean water. Agitate the clothing in the clean water. Repeat as necessary to remove any remaining detergent. Then, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).

How to Dry Your Hand-Washed Clothes

Once the clothing has been hand-washed and squeezed to remove excess water; hang dry or lay flat to dry—the care label might specify which dry method to use. You can also use a dry towel to press the garment and remove extra moisture before leaving it to air dry.

FAQs About Hand-Washing Clothes

What is the best soap for hand-washing clothes?

Most regular laundry detergents are safe for hand-washing clothes; but if you prefer a delicate laundry detergent, try Tide Free and Gentle or Woolite Delicates.

Does hand-washing clothes sanitize them?

Hand-washing kills germs, but heat is what you need to sanitize (heat of 167°F or more kills the flu virus). You can steam or iron your clothes after hand-washing to sanitize, but check the care labels first.

Why are clothes stiff after hand-washing?

Without the heat and tumble action of the dryer, air-dried clothes can feel a little stiff. To combat this, add a little vinegar to the rinse water. It acts as a natural fabric softener.

The post How to Hand-Wash Clothes the Right Way appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Nearly every major holiday and season boasts a Scrub Daddy shaped for the occasion, including Halloween and Christmas, and summer is no exception. Enter: Scrub Daddy summer shapes. These saltwater-inspired smiles add a fun beachy flair to summer cottages and home kitchens alike.

What are the Scrub Daddy summer shapes?

The Scrub Daddy summer shapes aren’t just clever dishwashing products. Instead, they work on nearly all areas of the home. Crafted from materials that dry quickly, the sponges are smell-resistant, which means they don’t hold onto odors, even after a thorough home cleaning. As a bonus, these grinning sea creatures do it all while looking adorable.

With an assortment of three ocean-inspired shapes—a smiling octopus, crab and shark in purple, red and blue, respectively—these sponges deliver a fun way to finish chores. They’ll almost make up for the fact that you’re inside cleaning instead of enjoying the summer sun! Even better, these sponges are multipurpose. The soft, scratch-free design is tough on stains while remaining gentle enough to clean cast iron.

Like a regular Scrub Daddy, these aqua-themed sponges change texture based on water temperature. Cold water stiffens the sponges, making them hold up better to stubborn stuck-on messes. In hot water, they’re slightly softer and more suited to scrubbing a bathtub or stove. These flexible cleaning tools stand up to nearly any scrub-related task.

Psst! Scrub Daddy products are so popular that the brand expanded their scope to include other helpful cleaning tools, like a damp duster and grill brush.

$35.65 at Amazon

How to Use the Scrub Daddy Summer Shapes

Using the Scrub Daddy summer shapes is just like using the original Amazon bestselling cleaning product. Simply unbox the shapes, run them under water—cold for a stiffer feel or hot for a more gentle scrub—and start cleaning. Use the TikTok-famous product to buff away baked-on food from pans and Dutch ovens. It even works on floors and walls! When finished, store in a cool, dry place to help the sponges dry out quickly.

For tough stains on a stove or in a sink, add a dab of The Pink Stuff. This dynamic duo works well together to eliminate stuck-on substances without harsh scrubbing.

Where to Buy the Scrub Daddy Summer Shapes

Scrub Daddy summer shapes are one of the top-selling Amazon cleaning products. Head over to the site to pick up a pack of three for $27. Amazon also runs frequent sales on these sponges, so keep an eye out for special savings and coupon offers at checkout. Don’t settle for stinky, floppy sponges—these smiling sea creatures are here to make cleaning fun!

$35.65 at Amazon

The post Scrub Daddy’s Summer Shapes Include the Cutest Octopus, Crab and Shark appeared first on Taste Recipes.

How to Clean a Stainless Steel Pan

Stainless steel cookware is durable and easy to care for. You can hand-wash your stainless steel pots and pans with soap and warm water, and even better, you can run them through the dishwasher (unlike nonstick pans).

P.S. If you’re still digging through cabinets to find pots and pans, it’s time to add this Mudeela Pan Organizer to your cart.

General Cleaning

For general cleaning of stainless steel pots and pans, here are a few cleaning tips to keep in mind:

• Although most stainless steel is dishwasher safe, long cycles and high-temperature water can damage the surface of pots and pans and loosen-up the handles over time. So don’t rely too heavily on the dishwasher.
• Allow stainless steel pans to completely cool before washing them. Exposing hot pans to cold water can cause warping and cracking.
• Be sure to hand dry stainless steel pots and pans right away. Otherwise, you’ll see unsightly water spots.
• Don’t use steel wool to wash stainless steel; it will scratch up the finish. Choose a non-abrasive sponge instead.

Tough Stains

To remove tougher stains, like burnt-on grease and discoloration, use this boil method.

Add about an inch of water to the stained pan, and place it on a burner. Bring the water to a boil. This will soften the burnt-on food and make it easier to remove. While the water is boiling, scrape the pan with a plastic or silicone spatula, or a wooden spoon. Once the pan is cool to the touch, hand-wash it with soap and water.

How to Make Your Stainless Steel Look New Again

A stainless steel cleaner or baking soda will make your pan shine like new again; but our favorite option is Bar Keepers Friend Superior Cookware Cleanser. Dampen the pan with warm water, then sprinkler your cleaner of choice over the wet surface of the pan. Scrub cleaner into surface with a soft sponge or cloth, then rinse well. Dry with a towel to avoid water spots.

The post How to Clean Stainless Steel Pots and Pans appeared first on Taste Recipes.

To keep your mattress looking and smelling fresh, deep clean it about every six months (same as your pillows). Proper cleaning and care will not only ensure a more comfortable bed, but also lengthen the lifespan of your mattress. Here’s how to clean a mattress with a few easy steps.

How to Clean Your Mattress

Tools

• Vacuum with upholstery attachment
• Enzyme cleaner or hydrogen peroxide
• Baking soda
• Microfiber cloth

Directions

Step 1: Strip the bed

Strip off all the bedding including the mattress pad. This is a good time to wash your pillows.

Step 2: Vacuum

Using the upholstery attachment, vacuum the entire mattress thoroughly. The vacuum will get rid of dust, crumbs, hair and dander.

Step 3: Spot clean

For visible stains on your mattress, spot clean with an enzyme cleaner or a homemade cleaner using hydrogen peroxide (mix 1 cup hydrogen peroxide, 3 tablespoons baking soda and a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle). Both options are effective on biological stains. Spray the cleaner onto a microfiber cloth, then scrub the stain. Blot away moisture with a clean cloth.

Step 4: Sprinkle baking soda

After the mattress is dry from spot cleaning, sprinkle the entire surface with baking soda. Baking soda is a natural deodorizer and will neutralize any lingering odors. Allow the baking soda to sit for at least 15 minutes, but preferably a few hours. Then vacuum up the baking soda using the upholstery attachment.

How to Clean a Mattress FAQs

How to remove stains from a mattress

As mentioned above, an enzyme cleaner or hydrogen peroxide are the most effective options for biological stains like urine, sweat or blood. For general dirt and grime stains, use a regular stain remover or even dish soap and water. Apply the stain remover to a cloth or brush, instead of directly on the mattress. You want to avoid getting the mattress too wet, especially if you have a memory foam mattress.

How to deodorize and sanitize a mattress

You can deodorize the mattress with baking soda. To sanitize your mattress, a steamer works well (but check manufacturer instructions first). Steam that reaches 250°F will kill bacteria and dust mites. Steam the mattress after vacuuming and spot cleaning. Use short, quick strokes so as not to get the mattress too wet. Allow the mattress to air dry completely before replacing the bedding.

How to deep-clean a mattress

To deep clean, follow all the steps above. For an even deeper clean, allow the baking soda to sit overnight to work its magic. It’s also a good idea to open the window after cleaning your mattress—this will air out the mattress and let in some sunlight; UV rays will kill bacteria, dust mites and more.

How to know when it’s time to replace your mattress

As a general rule, replace your mattress after about 7 to 10 years. You’ll know it’s time to replace it if you notice sagging, extra noise from coils or springs or a bad smell that you can’t get rid of. If your allergies are acting up, that might be another sign that irritants have built up in your mattress, and it’s time for a new one. Also pay attention to interrupted sleep patterns or frequently waking up with pain without any other known causes. These could be signs that your mattress is no longer offering adequate support.

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How to Clean Your TV Screen

Tools

• Microfiber cloth
• Distilled water
• Spray bottle

Directions

1. Turn the TV off and let it cool down for a few minutes, then unplug it. This is the safest way to clean a TV, and the black screen will make smudges and stains easier to see.
2. To get rid of dust, gently wipe the screen and frame with a dry microfiber cleaning cloth, using a circular motion. Microfiber traps dust and won’t scratch the screen. But make sure to wipe gently; TV screens are fragile and can be damaged if you apply too much pressure.
3. For finger smudges or tougher stains, spray distilled water on to your microfiber cleaning cloth to barely dampen it (squeeze out any excess water). Then gently wipe the frame and screen. Don’t spray water directly on the screen.
4. Dry the screen by wiping it again with a dry cloth. Let the screen dry completely before plugging it back in.

How to Clean a TV Remote Control

With the entire family handling the TV remote, it can become a magnet for bacteria and grime—so don’t forget to clean it weekly. First take the batteries out of the remote. Then wipe the remote with a damp microfiber cloth to get rid of any dirt or sticky residue. To disinfect, dampen the cloth with rubbing alcohol and wipe the remote, then dry with a clean cloth. Use a toothpick or Q-tip to clean crumbs and debris out of all the little crevices. These electronic wipes are another option, formulated to kill 99.9% of germs and bacteria.

What to Avoid When Cleaning a TV

According to Samsung, you should never use any type of window cleaner, soap, scouring powder, wax or any cleanser with solvents like alcohol, benzene, ammonia or acetone when cleaning your TV. Also avoid abrasive pads or paper towels which can scratch the screen and strip the anti-glare coating.

The post How to Clean a TV Screen appeared first on Taste Recipes.

Here’s how to clean suede shoes so they always look new and how to protect them from permanent staining.

How to Clean Suede Shoes

Tools

• Towel
• Newspaper
• Suede brush (or lint-free cloth)
• Clean eraser (or suede eraser)
• Baking soda
• White vinegar

Directions

Step 1: Set up a cleaning station

On a flat surface, lay down an old towel and set up all the shoe-cleaning supplies. Stuff the shoes with crumbled-up newspaper to retain the shape of the shoes while you clean and make them easier to handle. If your shoes are damp, leave them out to air dry. The suede should be completely dry before moving on to the next step.

Step 2: Remove debris

The next step is removing any surface dirt or debris from the shoes. Use a soft suede brush and move the brush in a straight back and forth motion along the entire surface of each shoe. This helps brush the dirt away rather than pushing it further into the suede fibers.

Step 3: Spot clean

Check for noticeable stains, then spot clean with an eraser. You can use a regular, clean pencil eraser to gently rub away the stain. Or if you prefer, a specialized suede eraser made of natural rubber works great. This kit comes with both a suede brush and an eraser.

Another spot-cleaning technique involves baking soda. Sprinkle a little baking soda on the stain, then gently brush the stain and baking soda with the suede brush to work the stain out.

Step 4: Use vinegar

To treat more stubborn stains, or give the entire shoe a refresh, dampen the corner of a lint-free cloth with white vinegar and gently massage the shoe. Allow the shoe to dry, then repeat as needed. Be careful not to saturate the suede.

Step 5: Treat your shoes

Once your shoes are clean, you need to protect them. A waterproofing spray (like the highly-rated Crep Protect Shoe Protector Spray) will help repel water and dirt, keeping your shoes cleaner longer. Before applying, shake the can well. Then, evenly spray the shoes from about 8 to 10 inches away. Let the shoes dry, then spray them again—two coats will give you the best results.

FAQs About Cleaning Suede

Does brushing suede damage it?

No, just be sure to use a suede brush, usually made of horse hair, or a soft toothbrush. Brushing the suede gets rid of dirt, can buff out scratches and helps fluff the suede to restore its soft texture.

Does soap and water ruin suede?

We don’t recommend using soap and water to clean suede shoes (and never put them in the washer). If you want to wash your shoes more thoroughly than dry brushing and spot cleaning, you can use a special suede foam cleaner.

Can you clean suede with Dawn soap?

No, do not clean suede shoes with Dawn dish soap. Dawn is a powerful grease-cutting soap, and the formula is too harsh for suede. It can leave behind stains or residue. Only a drop of Dawn diluted in water might be effective on spot treating your shoes, but it’s safer to stick to suede soap or suede shampoo.

The post How to Clean Suede Shoes Without Ruining The Texture appeared first on Taste Recipes.

The Best Ways to Clean White Shoes

How to Clean Canvas Shoes

White canvas is durable so it’s OK to clean with the most powerful whitener—bleach. First brush the shoes with a dry nylon brush or toothbrush to get rid of any surface dirt. Then, dilute the bleach by mixing it with water. You only need 1/3 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water. Dip the brush in the bleach solution then scrub the canvas shoes using a circular motion. Rinse by scrubbing with clean water. Allow them to dry completely, then repeat as needed on stubborn spots.

The Best White Canvas Shoe Cleaner: Clorox Bleach

How to Clean Leather Shoes

White leather shoes should be cleaned with care; too much water or the wrong product can damage the leather and cause the shoes to lose their shape. First, brush or wipe the leather shoes with a damp cloth to get rid of surface debris. Then use a specialized leather cleaner. This top-reviewed cleaner and conditioner is formulated with saddle soap and gentle oils to clean leather and restore moisture. Apply about three small drops on the included brush, then dip the brush in a bowl of water. Scrub shoes gently, then dry with a clean cloth.

The Best White Leather Shoe Cleaner: Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner

How to Clean Foam or Rubber Shoes

If you have a tween or teen living in your house, they most likely own a pair of Crocs or flip flops; and the white variety get very dirty, very quickly. Luckily cleaning them is simple. Clean rubber or foam shoes with dish soap and water; using a scrub brush, cloth or sponge. You can even throw them in the washing machine on the gentle cycle! For Crocs specifically, Crocs Shine is a specially formulated polish and applicator sponge that removes dirt and restores luster. Simply rub the sponge across the affected areas of your shoes and remove any excess cleaner with a dry paper towel or cloth.

The Best Crocs Cleaner: Crocs Shine

How to Clean White Shoe Laces

Remove the laces from the shoe. Mix 1/3 cup of bleach and 1 gallon of water. Submerge the laces in the mixture and let them soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then lay flat to air dry. You can also toss the laces in a mesh laundry bag and wash them with a regular load of clothes.

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How to wash a weighted blanket depends a lot on what type of blanket you own. They come in a variety of fabrics and filler materials with different care requirements. We’ll break it down with step-by-step instructions so your blanket is always clean and ready to lull you to sleep.

Can You Wash a Weighted Blanket?

Most weighted blankets are washable, or at least the removable outer cover is washable. However, checking the care label is essential because the weight, fabric and filler material of the blanket will affect the washing instructions. If your blanket is cotton with plastic bead filler, for example, it’s usually safe to wash. However, a blanket filled with rice or grains will most likely be dry-clean or hand-wash only.

How to Wash a Weighted Blanket

Directions

Step 1: Determine if the blanket is machine-safe

Check the care label of your weighted blanket before you do anything else. The care label will tell you if the blanket is machine washable, hand wash, or dry-clean only. Often the outer cover is washable, but the inner blanket is spot clean only.

Step 2: Spot treat stains

Mix two cups of cold water with one teaspoon of laundry detergent. Apply the mixture to the stain and scrub gently with a toothbrush or cloth. Alternatively you can also use a mixture of two cups water to a drop of dish soap. Dish soap will be more effective for grease and oil stains. Do not use any bleach products.

Step 3: Wash the weighted blanket

For a machine-washable blanket, wash it alone using cold water and a mild detergent. Do not use fabric softener or bleach. If your blanket weighs 20 pounds or less it’s probably okay to wash in your washer at home. Anything over 25 pounds could damage your washer (or might not even fit); in that case, take it to a laundromat and use a commercial washer.

For a hand wash-only blanket, see further instructions below.

Step 4: Air dry the weighted blanket

Some weighted blankets can tolerate low heat in the dryer, but to extend the life of your blanket, we recommend air drying. Place the weighted blanket on a clean, even surface and allow it to air dry overnight. Don’t hang dry because this will cause the filler beads to bunch up in the bottom of the blanket.

Weighted Blanket FAQs

How often should you wash a weighted blanket?

How often you use your weighted blanket will determine how often it should be washed. If you use it every day, it’s a good idea to wash it once a week, like the rest of your bedding. (And don’t forget to clean your washing machine, too.) You can wash it less if you don’t use it often. But it’s a good idea to spot clean as needed.

If your blanket has a removable cover, wash the cover once a week and the inner blanket about once a month.

Should you wash a weighted blanket by itself?

Yes, washing a weighted blanket alone will avoid damaging the blanket or other items in your laundry. And because of the thickness of a weighted blanket, mostly likely it will fill your washer to capacity by itself.

How do you hand-wash a weighted blanket?

Fill your bathtub with cold or warm water and pour in a cap of gentle detergent. Swirl the water to mix in the detergent. Insert the blanket into the water and knead it with your hands for a few minutes. You can allow it to soak for about 30 minutes if needed. Drain the soapy water and refill the tub with clean water to rinse. Repeat until all the soap suds are gone. Squeeze as much water as you can out of the blanket, then lay flat to dry.

Up Next: Learn how to wash pillows the right way.

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Because floors need a good scrub so often, it can get annoying having to restock so many products for different types of floors. Luckily, whether you have hardwood, laminate, tile or vinyl flooring (or all four!), there’s a homemade floor cleaner you can make out of basic household ingredients.

How to Clean Floors with Homemade Floor Cleaner

Wood Flooring

The most important thing to think about when cleaning hardwood floors is that you don’t want to damage the finish on the wood. Luckily, using homemade floor cleaners means you know exactly what is going on your floor. No harsh, unknown chemicals here!

Peppermint tea contains tannic acids that can improve your immune system, but the acids also help improve the look of your floors by attacking the dirt. Baby oil can work wonders gently buffing away and lifting dirt and grime. And dish soap is a gem when it comes to removing food stains and scrubbing bathtubs clean, so it comes as no surprise that it works well on flooring too.

What you’ll need: 1 quart water, 6 peppermint tea bags, 1 quart white vinegar, 2 tablespoons baby oil, 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid

Directions: Boil the water, remove from heat, and steep the peppermint tea bags for 2 hours. Then, pour the tea into a bucket, and add the vinegar, baby oil and dishwashing liquid. Stir together. Soak your mop, wring it out and mop the floor.

Editor’s Tip: Be sure to wring your mop out regularly, as too much water can warp your beautiful flooring.

Laminate

A solution of water and vinegar should be all you need to keep your laminate floor looking shiny and new. Are we surprised, though? Cleaning with vinegar is one of the easiest ways to cut down on fancy chemicals—vinegar cleans almost everything.

What you’ll need: 1 quart water, 1/4 cup white vinegar

Directions: Add the water and vinegar mixture to a spray bottle. Spray the solution directly on the floor, and then follow up with a damp cloth to buff away dirt. If you’d rather not be on your hands and knees, use a damp mop to wipe away the vinegar solution.

Because too much vinegar can damage laminate if it sits for too long, be sure to work in small amounts so you have time to mop up the vinegar right away. Once you’ve rubbed or mopped the vinegar into your flooring and it looks like the dirt has lifted, wipe down the laminate with a clean, dry cloth.

Tile

Tile flooring, similar to linoleum, is very common in busy areas of the home: entryways, kitchens and bathrooms. Because these rooms often see lots of traffic, they’re probably going to be some of the most filthy. Like laminate flooring, tile (and linoleum for that matter) hold up well with chemical-free cleaning. Vinegar and water strike again!

What you’ll need: 1 gallon warm water, 1/2 cup white vinegar

Directions: Mix the solution in a bucket or mop pail, wring out your mop, and mop away. If you’re worried about the integrity of your tile floors against the strength of vinegar, you can always finish up your cleaning by wiping down your floors with a dry and absorbent cloth.

Because tile is typically in areas of the house that get really dirty, you might notice that your floors need a little more than water and vinegar. This viral cleaning hack for tile uses baking soda and hydrogen peroxide, and wow, what a difference that can make.

Vinyl

Would you even be surprised if we told you that vinegar works to disinfect and clean vinyl floors too? No surprises here, you can use the same solution on vinyl that you use on laminate, tile and linoleum. You can also adapt the cleaning solution to your needs for vinyl by adding things like dish soap or baby oil.

What you’ll need: 1 gallon warm water, 1/2 cup white vinegar

Directions: Mix the solution in a bucket or mop pail. If your floors are really dirty, add a teaspoon of dishwashing liquid to penetrate the extra grime. For floors that are looking dull, add 1 or 2 capfuls of baby oil to boost the shine on your vinyl.

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Skip the harsh chemicals and pricey products and opt for homemade window cleaner instead. These two methods will make your windows—and most glass in your home—sparkling clean and streak-free.

Homemade Glass Cleaners

It’s no wonder there’s an allure to using homemade cleaning products. Cleaning supply aisles are stocked with all kinds of unknown chemicals and bright neon labels touting uses for every appliance in your home. But do we really need 12 bottles crowding the cabinets under our sinks? Turns out, less actually is more when it comes to cleaning your windows!

So what is the best homemade window cleaning solution? One that is simple and doesn’t boast a lot of ingredients. We have two methods using ingredients you probably already have at home: ammonia or vinegar.

Method 1: Vinegar and water

Looking for a simple wash with nothing too harsh on your glass? Vinegar and water is the most simple and effective solution. Combine 1 cup of white vinegar with 1 qt. of water. Dip a clean microfiber cloth into the solution and wipe down your glass, or transfer the mixture to a spray bottle and wipe away the droplets on your glass or mirrors.

Vinegar and water is a great homemade window cleaner for light touch-ups. Think wiping away the artful flourish of toddler handprints or the glass planes in kitchen cabinets that seem to have permanent fingerprints.

Method 2: Ammonia and water

If your windows are in a high-traffic area of your home and have a bit of grime, household ammonia might be the best window cleaner for you. Keep in mind that ammonia is a cleaning product you shouldn’t use around your dog, so make sure Fido isn’t close when you’re using it.

Mix 2 tablespoons of ammonia with 2 qts. of warm water. Dab the solution onto a microfiber cloth or spray directly on the glass and wipe away in an S-shaped pattern to eliminate streaks and buff away grime.

Things you shouldn’t mix with homemade window cleaner

To avoid ruined surfaces and health hazards in your home, follow these tips to ensure safety when using your own cleaning products:

• Ammonia and bleach are cleaning products that should never mix, so be sure to keep things simple and only use ammonia and water when cleaning windows and glass.
• Vinegar can work wonders as a homemade glass cleaner, but there are certain surfaces you should never clean with vinegar, including dishwashers, marble countertops and waxed furniture.
• If your stovetop is glass, avoid using ammonia as a glass cleaner on that surface. Ammonia and water work well on windows, but could be too strong for stovetop glass. The harsh chemical makeup in ammonia could cause streaks and stains on glass stovetops. The same goes for mirrors—ammonia could ruin the edges of mirrors and degrade the backing.

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Enter, the homemade degreaser. Making a degreaser out of products you already have in your home gives you the peace of mind that you know exactly what’s in the solution. Products like vinegar and baking soda are part of vintage cleaning hacks for a reason—they’re time-tested, effective products sans mystery chemicals and intimidating warning labels.

Let’s bring back the simplicity of mixing your own cleaning solutions and scour those tough grease spots away. (Just remember to never mix these cleaning products.)

Before You Start

If you’ve ever mopped a floor before sweeping it, you’ll know what we mean when we say it’s important to remove crumbs and clear your work area before degreasing. Make sure all your other dishes are cleaned and put away. Remove any kitchen decor, olive oil bottles, salt cellars or knife blocks you have near your stove. Remove any crumbs or caked-on food from your pots, pans and stove top that can easily come up with a damp paper towel or kitchen rag.

How to Make Your Own Homemade Degreaser

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup white vinegar
• 1/3 cup clear household ammonia
• 1/4 cup baking soda
• 2 tablespoons liquid castile soap
• 1-1/2 quarts water

Tools

• Spray bottle: Using a spray bottle makes cleanup simple, plus you can store it easily under your sink.
• Sponge: Use a sponge to rub the degreaser into the stained areas. The sponge is rough enough to buff out tough stains without scratching the surface.
• Dish cloth: Dish cloths are gentle and can pick up any remaining grime and degreaser solution once it’s been rubbed in.

Directions

Step 1: Combine ingredients

Combine all ingredients in a half-gallon container and stir well. Pour the solution into a spray bottle.

Step 2: Spray affected area

Spray the degreaser onto grease stains and let it sit for 3-5 minutes, depending on how tough the stain is.

Step 3: Rub away the grime

Using a clean sponge, gently rub the stain until it starts to lift. Wipe away any excess grime and degreaser with a clean, damp dish cloth. Also, learn how to make a homemade drain cleaner.

Homemade Degreaser FAQs

Why do I need to test the degreaser before cleaning?

If you’re nervous about the strength of this homemade degreaser, you can always spot check it. Spray or dab a small amount on the surface you will be degreasing. If it comes off well and doesn’t harm the surface of your pans, range or cabinets, then that’s a good sign you can go ahead and apply it to a larger area.

What other things can this mixture clean?

This mixture can also work as a stain remover on clothes, table cloths, dish rags and napkins. Dab a cloth into the mixture, then rub the stained area with the cloth. Wash the garment quickly after spot treating so that the product does not sit for too long on delicate garments.

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Not only is making homemade drain cleaner easy and cheap, but it’s also safer for you. If the unknown chemicals and warnings of lung irritation and headaches on store-bought products worries you, it could be time to try taking a more simple approach to cleaning. There are many recipes for homemade cleaners that use basic (and nontoxic) things you already have around the house, and this natural drain cleaner is no different—let’s get mixing!

How to Make a Homemade Drain Cleaner

Ingredients

• 1 cup baking soda
• 1 cup salt
• 1/4 cup cream of tartar
• 1 cup boiling water

Tools

• Needle-Nose pliers: Needle-nose pliers can come in really handy for drains clogged with hair. Because hair is so fine, pliers make it easier to grasp the clump of hair. Use pliers if you’ve already tried unclogging a drain with the baking soda mixture and the clog hasn’t cleared.
• Sink plunger: Mini plungers for sinks are useful for tough clogs and also as a final step when using the baking soda solution. Even if your drain seems clear after pouring the boiling water through, follow it up with a plunger to ensure you get everything out.
• Drain snake: When baking soda, pliers and plunging fails, it’s time for a drain snake. Drain snakes will help break up a clog no matter how tough it may be.

Directions

Step 1: Mix ingredients

Add baking soda, salt and cream of tartar to a large glass container. Cover tightly with the lid and shake to mix thoroughly. Set aside.

Then, boil the cup of water.

Step 2: Pour down the drain

Pour 1/4 of this powdery mixture down a dry drain, then follow with boiling water. You will start to see bubbles forming.

Step 3: Turn on the faucet

When the bubbles begin to subside, flush out the drain with cold water for about 4 minutes.

Step 4: Follow up with a plunger, pliers or drain snake

If your drain still appears clogged, follow up with a plunger to pull out any remaining obstructions. If the plunger doesn’t do it justice, try going in with needle-nose pliers or a drain snake. Learn how to make a homemade degreaser.

Drain Cleaning FAQs

Why is my drain clogged?

As gross as it is to think about, what goes up eventually must go down. So when you’re exfoliating with a loofah or using a scalp massager to work in a hair mask or shaving your legs, it’s all going down your drain. That’s right—skin flakes, hair products, soap, shaving cream, hair—it’s all pooling in your drains and clumping together into one disgusting obstruction.

Your kitchen sink also sees a good deal of soap scum and food particles. Even if you can’t see these teeny tiny bits going down the drain, they’re down there, and they are building up on the walls of your sink and shower pipes.

How can I keep my drains from clogging?

Just like when you notice your dishwasher isn’t draining and you have to clear the debris from the dishwasher filter, the same goes for your sink. Rather than letting your garbage disposal do all the work of shredding citrus peels, soggy cereal and potato chunks, insert a drain basket to catch larger bits of food. It would also be good to remember which foods could ruin your garbage disposal.

For your shower, the easiest way to keep your drain from clogging would be to insert a drain protector. These little caps work as strainers—water can flow through but hair gets trapped. This preventative tool means you’ll have less hair that escapes into your drains, making cleaning day much easier.

How often should I clean my drains?

Using the baking soda mixture twice a month will help keep your drains clog-free. No more pooling water at your feet when you’re showering or slow sink drainage when you’re trying to wash dishes!

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